I think i need to replace my CCT but im worried about doing it... ive done everything else to my bike. but i not shure about this one....any thoughts????

 

go here and let me know if you have any more Q's

http://www.bossturbo.com/cbr/howto_cct.shtml

 

Thats actually an awesome write up.....I think I may have used it as a guide when I did mine. It's not all that difficult, getting to the damn thing is the hardest part. If your decently mechanically inclined it'll be easy enough.

 

I recomend buying a munaul tensioner. You can just screw your auto in more, but if you go to far, you can't back it off. With a manual, you can adjust it while the bikes running, and if you think it's to tight, just back it off a little. Honda is on, I believe, the fourth revision of the CCT. It's a piece of crap part that will just keep going. At $75 a shot, that adds up quick. Another plus of a manual, is that you can adjust it on the side of theroad ifcam chain getsthat bad.

 

+99999999999

takes longer getting the .5inch bolts out of the old one than anything else. Get the right tools and you will be fine. +1 to manual

 

Im gonna do a permenant fix for the cct.... all it requires is a bolt and a locknut to hold it in place.... $1.63

i dont know much about this homemade mod other than a few friends have tried it and it had lasted forever.... and im just gonna give it to them to do it...

 

i would highly recommend that you research more in depth about the cctl before you post misleading information. the OEM provides more and more tension as the chain needs it. it doesn't back out because it's designed NOT to back out. why would you ever need to back out an automatic tensioner?

the cctldoesn't 'go'...moving parts lose tolerance causing it to operate noisily, but still able to provide tension, etc.

seriously...monkey see monkey do...with no facts behind it.

 

I have replaced 2 auto tensioners already. The only reason I stated they don't go back is because you can manually adjust the auto tensioner to tighten up the cam chainif it fails to keep tension (because it's only spring loaded), but the problem being with that is you can't back it up if you adjust your auto tensioner to far manually, you could snap your cam chain. I realize it's designed that way.Read the whole post before you reply, maybe take one apart and look at it's week design.

 

+1

Yea if you want to take off your faring and gas tank. Good luck adjusting that sucker on the side of the road.

 

muahahah...muahahahah....muahahahhaa...muahahahhaha...muhahahahah...muahahahhaha

actually, i've been messing with them for about 3 years now...i've more than taken 1 apart...but dozens...my garage used to be a graveyard for miscellaneous bike parts.

i challenge riders to find out what the noise is before you even 'think' that it's the cam chain slapping around...and ask questions like...why the cctl wasn't ever recalled for safety issues?

if the cctl failed, as many say it's failing...it would severely FUBAR the engine...and likely take the rider down with it...yet still no recall...hmmm...let's investigate further...maybe there is no 'safety' issues that would require a recall then? let's investigate further...

even when noisy, the cctl is still providing adequate tension on the cam chain. it's automatic so as the chain gets loose, it springs forward, there is never a reason you would you ever have to adjust. the spring has enough tension on it already to feel any looseness and extend the shaftaccordingly.

do a comparison between a noisy cctl and a new cctl and then check the cam chain tension/play...they will be the same...then take out the 2 cctls and compare them...shake them, etc...and you'll notice that one has a whole mess of parts rattling and the other doesn't. where are these rattling areas? most notable, the tip and secondly, the shaft and cctl body.

now why does forcing the OEM cctl to operate manually take away the noise then?

because once you add tension, the tip now has more tension against the cam chain...preventing it from vibrating as it did before. same with the shaft. the increase tension isn't just absorbed by the chain, but also by the cctl itself. think of a loosely threaded nut sitting on top of a bolt. touch it, etc....it'll move and rattle and make noise. now push down on this nut. it's still in the same part of the bolt but now has say 10lbs of force behind it. will it still move, shake or rattle? most likely not.

OEM, great design, too bad a lot of rattling going on. why? engine harmonics for some reason on the F4i causes certain areas of the cctl to wear...other bikes have the same cctl design, yet they don't have the noise issues...because different engine harmonics, etc.

APE design...hmm...one bolt, one lock nut, one body/frame...oh yea...awesome design...search for right tension via 'listening' for it...ok...sounds simple...way too simple for something that's been designed to operate not so simply.

it's not my point to argue nor to flame, it's my point to pass along key information, so that people make informed decisions, not ones based off heresay, lack of research, etc.

about 95% of the people don't fully understand how the stocker works...only that APE supposedly 'cures' the noise.

most don't really care about the mechanics behind it nor the cause...they just want to get rid of the noise and ride...and then pass along information regarding APE this APE that...
i guess that's fine, but when they pass on bad information, that doesn't sit so well.

so for those who really care about their bikes and want to know the mechanics behind it...research it. if not, slap on an APE and forget about it, until one day your bike is starved of oil because too much tension has caused the plastic chain guides to wear out, kicking shavings into the motor and plugging up passages for oil.