DanMoto 3d Clipons
It took me a long time to make up my mind because the price was so low, and the parts are from China.
Finally I figured wtf, it's not going to kill me if I can't get them to work, or don't like the quality of them. I got them on Monday night and put them on yesterday. Solid aluminum, precisely machined, rock solid when tightened in place.
I was looking for a slight change to height, and slight move back, not a huge change and especially not enough to modify the fairing, although I may consider a modified screen, but that's not desirable.
Now here's my issue:
With the oem clipon, the master cylinder extends to the left, past the end of the bar. With the DM3d clipon, there's another clamp where the bar meets the riser. That just makes for a tight fit. The problem is that the riser is there, so when trying to rotate the MC forward to the get the brake lever at the right angle, it hits the riser. To compensate for that, everything has to be adjusted to spin the whole clipon assembly around the fork to bring it closer to the rider, then the riser must be tilted forward to get the angle for the MC and brake lever.
It may work to slide the controls further out on the bar (it's about 2" longer than oem), but I either need a new brake line, or I need to file off the stop that's cast in to the MC to keep the brake fitting in the right spot.
While I did get it to work, it's not really the way I wanted to, and doing it the same way on the clutch side means I need a longer clutch cable. Otherwise, I could put the left one right where I want it.
So I'm not sure whether I need a different setup for the MC (like a separate reservoir/brake cylinder), or I can just change the brake line (or fitting) and get it to where I want. Since I tried it last night and needed the bike again this morning, I didn't want to disconnect the brake line and not have time for a test ride.
Has anyone tried these? It still seems they should do what I want, but there's a little more modification than I had hoped for. I think the first thing I should try is removing the brake line and trying to put everything where I want it. Then I can see if I need a new line or fitting, or any other cables.
BTW, I did take pics, but I was holding a light in one hand and the bb Playbook in the other - the clutch side pic turned out but the important one didn't and I didn't even notice at the time. Stupid. I finally start taking pictures for reference and I screw it up!
Finally I figured wtf, it's not going to kill me if I can't get them to work, or don't like the quality of them. I got them on Monday night and put them on yesterday. Solid aluminum, precisely machined, rock solid when tightened in place.
I was looking for a slight change to height, and slight move back, not a huge change and especially not enough to modify the fairing, although I may consider a modified screen, but that's not desirable.
Now here's my issue:
With the oem clipon, the master cylinder extends to the left, past the end of the bar. With the DM3d clipon, there's another clamp where the bar meets the riser. That just makes for a tight fit. The problem is that the riser is there, so when trying to rotate the MC forward to the get the brake lever at the right angle, it hits the riser. To compensate for that, everything has to be adjusted to spin the whole clipon assembly around the fork to bring it closer to the rider, then the riser must be tilted forward to get the angle for the MC and brake lever.
It may work to slide the controls further out on the bar (it's about 2" longer than oem), but I either need a new brake line, or I need to file off the stop that's cast in to the MC to keep the brake fitting in the right spot.
While I did get it to work, it's not really the way I wanted to, and doing it the same way on the clutch side means I need a longer clutch cable. Otherwise, I could put the left one right where I want it.
So I'm not sure whether I need a different setup for the MC (like a separate reservoir/brake cylinder), or I can just change the brake line (or fitting) and get it to where I want. Since I tried it last night and needed the bike again this morning, I didn't want to disconnect the brake line and not have time for a test ride.
Has anyone tried these? It still seems they should do what I want, but there's a little more modification than I had hoped for. I think the first thing I should try is removing the brake line and trying to put everything where I want it. Then I can see if I need a new line or fitting, or any other cables.
BTW, I did take pics, but I was holding a light in one hand and the bb Playbook in the other - the clutch side pic turned out but the important one didn't and I didn't even notice at the time. Stupid. I finally start taking pictures for reference and I screw it up!
the bars are universal - there's no guarantee they'll fit without fairing/windscreen interference.
If I wanted to modify bodywork, I could put the bars where ever I wanted.
I didn't realize the f4i had the separate reservoir. That is something I've been considering from other bikes..
It still may be an issue for the cylinder itself to roll forward far enough. In that case, a radial cylinder would be better ('07 and newer RR?).
I'm going try different setups without the brake line hooked up. The angle of that fitting really affects the placement around the top of the fork.
If I wanted to modify bodywork, I could put the bars where ever I wanted.
I didn't realize the f4i had the separate reservoir. That is something I've been considering from other bikes..
It still may be an issue for the cylinder itself to roll forward far enough. In that case, a radial cylinder would be better ('07 and newer RR?).
I'm going try different setups without the brake line hooked up. The angle of that fitting really affects the placement around the top of the fork.
To get it right, this is one of the more pain-staking mods to do.
To move the bars in any significant way, you will probably have to go with longer
clutch and throttle cables. Brake lines are always a consideration, as you've noted.
The MC is usually the other biggy, with a sport-fairing. I'm currently doing the same,
except I'm using the APEX 3" kit. I'm reluctant to dump the cash into a remote
reservoir set-up. I'm already way past the break-even on the beastie, for anything
but personal aestethics. So, I'm going with a little carving to the edges of the fairing.
On the F3, I can gain what I need, without carving into the main-stay.
All in all, this is one of the more complex mods...short of utilizing a cut-off wheel and a Mig-rig. lol
Just remember it's supposed to be fun, good luck, Ern
To move the bars in any significant way, you will probably have to go with longer
clutch and throttle cables. Brake lines are always a consideration, as you've noted.
The MC is usually the other biggy, with a sport-fairing. I'm currently doing the same,
except I'm using the APEX 3" kit. I'm reluctant to dump the cash into a remote
reservoir set-up. I'm already way past the break-even on the beastie, for anything
but personal aestethics. So, I'm going with a little carving to the edges of the fairing.
On the F3, I can gain what I need, without carving into the main-stay.
All in all, this is one of the more complex mods...short of utilizing a cut-off wheel and a Mig-rig. lol
Just remember it's supposed to be fun, good luck, Ern
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