Looks like my 10A starter fuse blows when I turn on the ignition (not even starting it, just turning the key).

Bike will start with a 15A in there, but will die after shortly.
Also, the tacho is jumping erratically.

Any ideas on the ground/voltage problem location that might cause this so I don't have to break the whole bike down?

 

Mine did that when a frayed wire on the killswitch was shorting out to the handlebars.

 

ill take a look into it.
gracias.

 

so the fuse keeps blowing.
i checked the wires for any burns or ground problems and havent found any so far.

the fuse blows when i turn on the bike.
even when the safety switch is off.
checked the right handlebar safety switch and it checks out fine as far as i can tell, no loose wires.

however...
there was a backfire when i switched the safety to on, and the fuse blew.
so im not sure where to go from here.

considering its the ignition 10a fuse, im sure it has to be something in the ignition line up.
fuel pump is fine.
battery is good.
wires look good...

could it be the relay or starter?

 

the ignition relay and 30a fuse are good to go.
switch on right handlebar is clean and fine.
I disconnected the fuel pump and it still blew.
Rewired the R/R just to be on the safe side.

Wireharness appears to be in good shape, no exposed wires, and from what I can see, no burns.

Does anyone have a procedure as what to do in order to diagnose the problem?

When I turn on the bike, it takes about 10 seconds before the fuse actually blows (melts, doesnt explode) but will do so without cranking and regardless of safety switch toggle.

 

could one of the components of the ignition cause a fuse to blow if it is bad? aka bad cdi, bad relay, etc...?

 

Just took a look at the wiring diagram, it's either gotta be in the right handlebar switch, the air solenoid switch, or the ignition module. If you can access the connections I'd start by disconnecting the air solenoid switch and the right handlebar switch, then turning the key and seeing if the fuse blows. If it still does, your problem lies in the ignition module. If not, your problem is either in the switch in the handle bar or the air solenoid switch.
Good luck and hopefully it's not the module.

 

yea haha i was doing that right before
air solenoid is disconnected, and the handle bar switch is fine.

its the cdi, and the fuse doesnt blow when it's disconnected.
so does that mean its the cdi (ecu) or perhaps the wiring that leads up to it?

anyway to test the cdi?
manual is kinda ifffy about it

 

ok there is continuity from the +[positive] battery to the 10a fuse, and all they way to the (black) CDI +[positive] power lead, which means the cdi is the first (and hopefully only) fault.

good news, a new cdi is on the way.

is there anything else that could be affected?
ignition pulse? relay?

 

The fact that there is continuity is a good thing and lets you know that the wiring good all the way to the CDI. I'm not sure if there is an actual testing procedure for the CDI. I'm sure you can tear into it and check for a short if you really wanted to, but if there's already a new one on the way, I wouldn't bother.
There shouldn't be damage to anything else on that fuse. That's the point of the fuse. I wonder what caused a short in the ignition module though.