Ticking noise - CCT or Exhaust Manifold
#1
Ticking noise - CCT or Exhaust Manifold
Hi all!
Just a quick question regarding a ticking noise that's just developed on my 1998 CBR 600-F. Only bought the bike a week ago, 27K miles on the clock. Today when I started the bike a ticking noise could be heard from the front (possibly) of the engine. My first thought was leaking manifold, have put my hand up there but can't feel any gas without getting too many burns! Having done a search though the forums I was wondering if this noise could be the CCT? The ticking sounds much like a leaky ex manifold (I'm coming to bikes from the car world) but was wondering if the noises were similar??
If it is the CCT how urgent a repair is it.. and how difficult is it with the aid of a haynes manual (any special tools required?)
Thanks in advance!
Just a quick question regarding a ticking noise that's just developed on my 1998 CBR 600-F. Only bought the bike a week ago, 27K miles on the clock. Today when I started the bike a ticking noise could be heard from the front (possibly) of the engine. My first thought was leaking manifold, have put my hand up there but can't feel any gas without getting too many burns! Having done a search though the forums I was wondering if this noise could be the CCT? The ticking sounds much like a leaky ex manifold (I'm coming to bikes from the car world) but was wondering if the noises were similar??
If it is the CCT how urgent a repair is it.. and how difficult is it with the aid of a haynes manual (any special tools required?)
Thanks in advance!
#2
RE: Ticking noise - CCT or Exhaust Manifold
That bike, it's more than likely the CCT. The best replacement is the manual CCT with the gasket - $50. You'll want to replace it before you ride it too much - you can bend valves and advance the timing.
Does the sound come out of it a bit when you're accelerating in higher RPM's?
Does the sound come out of it a bit when you're accelerating in higher RPM's?
#3
RE: Ticking noise - CCT or Exhaust Manifold
Hey KidCr3nshaw, thanks for the reply.
I've changed the CCTL for a new Honda replacement, new oil, new filters etc, CCTL all primmed up.
Ticking noise does seem to have reduced a lot, but is still audible on tick over and at low RPM. Now starting to wonder if it's a tappet out of adjustment??? Sound plausible? If so how difficult is it to adjust and what's the process to access them??
Thank!
I've changed the CCTL for a new Honda replacement, new oil, new filters etc, CCTL all primmed up.
Ticking noise does seem to have reduced a lot, but is still audible on tick over and at low RPM. Now starting to wonder if it's a tappet out of adjustment??? Sound plausible? If so how difficult is it to adjust and what's the process to access them??
Thank!
#4
RE: Ticking noise - CCT or Exhaust Manifold
What are you idling at?
You should be at 1200RPM at idle. I would make sure you're not at 1500RPM (seen a lot of that lately), if so, and you have a decent amount of miles on your bike, your top-end could be ticking. If your idle is high, have your bikes valve clearance checked with a feeler guage. If you need a manual for clearance specs, lemme know.
I need to look at prices for a bike, but I know a valve and lifter job for my Mustangs ran about $150 depending on the parts I used. I would expect bikes to be a tad cheaper. I'll find out, but first look at your idle RPM's.
P.S. Your idle will fluctuate from riding and simply setting. Mine is set at 1200 so when I start it and it's warmed up, it sets at 1200. After doing some good riding, it'll go to about 1500 because the oil is thinner and warmer, less resistance. So if I plane to continue riding all day, but not on the highway, I'll adjust the idle to 1200 again. If I'm riding highway I leave it. I'm not sure what everyone else will say about that, but it's how I do it.
Check your idle.
You should be at 1200RPM at idle. I would make sure you're not at 1500RPM (seen a lot of that lately), if so, and you have a decent amount of miles on your bike, your top-end could be ticking. If your idle is high, have your bikes valve clearance checked with a feeler guage. If you need a manual for clearance specs, lemme know.
I need to look at prices for a bike, but I know a valve and lifter job for my Mustangs ran about $150 depending on the parts I used. I would expect bikes to be a tad cheaper. I'll find out, but first look at your idle RPM's.
P.S. Your idle will fluctuate from riding and simply setting. Mine is set at 1200 so when I start it and it's warmed up, it sets at 1200. After doing some good riding, it'll go to about 1500 because the oil is thinner and warmer, less resistance. So if I plane to continue riding all day, but not on the highway, I'll adjust the idle to 1200 again. If I'm riding highway I leave it. I'm not sure what everyone else will say about that, but it's how I do it.
Check your idle.
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