Just bought a new D&D slip on and installed it (leave the hate, i know people dont like them).. Anxious to take it out for a spin i got on it right away and accelerated hard, my bike would stutter (dont know how else to put it) until about 3-5k (wasnt watching) and then smoother out and ti was all easy from there....
Note: My bike also has a K&N Filter


This does not make sense to me because of a few things..
1) D&D claims to be stock-jet friendly
2) I had a Yoshi slip on before and never had a problem

Gonna get some seafoam motor treatment and run it through my bike next week. Says it will clean carberator jets resulting in:

• Smoother idle (Have had some weird idling at stop lights lately)
• restored power and pickup
• Elimination of hesitations (what I think is happening )

Any easy suggestions/fixes? Can't afford to buy jets and have them professionally installed.

 

i like my d&d

Did it get re-jeted for the Yosh? cause that could be your problem. I dont know much but its a start. You could always clean your carbs too. i ran some seafoam through mine, I did the 1oz per gallon or whatever it is. Didnt notice to much of a difference but no worse. Perhaps a treatment now, and then once before winter if it doesnt clear up.

 

Whats the baffle diameter compared to the Yosh?If its smaller than the Yosh you are running rich and vice versa.For example a stock two muffler setup (quiet pipe) with 1 inch baffles will flow the same amount as a aftermarket (Loud) muffler with a 2 inch baffle.

 

My bike was never rejetted before. I am thinking maybe since the pipe is a bit wider once I get the carbs clean hopefully it'll go away? If the jets are a little gunked n seafoam clears it out, I think that would make it less lean?

 

If your new muffler has more volume ie. longer or bigger than the old one it would lead me to think that your are running lean in the lower rpm range and I would raise the needles 1 clip at a time until it goes away.If not you will have to shim them using tiny washers.An oval muffler thats the same length as a round one has more volume.BTW all the sales pitches from all the aftermarket pipe makers about never needs rejetting are dubious and I have never found it to be true if you want your bike to run cleanly at ALL rpm's.

 

I have no idea how to do this. Do you know anywhere that has a good write up about how to raise needles, or how to shim them.. and when to know it is dead on?

Also, will running my bike like this hurt it? (I am at college and cant do any serious work on it here, until thanksgiving break prolly)

 

You sound like my son only he goes to school close enough to bring his junk back home for me.If you dont have access to a clean/quiet workspace with some basic hand tools then I would leave it alone for now.It wont hurt anything...just annoying as hell.Shimming the needles involves taking a needle out and putting a washer about a half mm thick under it and putting it back in.Now if your bike has a jet kit installed you simply move the tiny e clip down 1 notch.Needle nose pliers gets them off real quick.Be careful I dropped one of these clips in an alley one time and spent 2 hours looking for it...thats why you want a clean well lit workspace.This raises the needle slightly and makes the mixture richer by allowing more fuel to flow.When working with carbs very slight and imperceptible adjustments make a MAJOR difference compared to the previous setting.The biggest problem for you is that taking the carbs off and back on takes about an hour and you need plenty of light to see what you are doing.Motorcylist online has a step by step tutorial on carb kit installation.This gives you an idea on whats involved with carb tuning.Its really not as hard as it sounds its just that on these bikes removing the carbs involves removing a bunch of other stuff first.In contrast I can have the carbs off and back on my 89 ZX10 in 5 minutes.Oh yeah...Its dead on when the sputtering is gone lol.

 

So take apart, washer, put together, try? repeat until fixed? I don't have a jet kit.

 

I was about to say, the stock needles don't have adjustable clip positions.

But I'd hold off on buy a jet kit and getting into all that. Slipons don't significantly alter the AF mix to require rejetting in my experience. With the K&N it might be altered enough to be wasting some potential power. But not enough to cause a performance issue imo.

But I'd start with making sure all my hoses are tight, the air isn't restricted and the carbs are clean.

 

If you dont have a jet kit with adjustable needles 2 washers is the max I would try.Before I did anything I would put the old muffler back on and see if indeed the new one is causing the problem.