Well I put the a new OEM paper filter in (was K&N) and it has almost made it perfect. With the bike running lean because of the new stainless free flow exhaust and headers it made sense to cut it back a bit and the standard filter has really helped balance it out.
Unfortunately the forks leaked oil everywhere on the test ride so i struggled to get it past 70mph (I live is the twisty countryside) but boy did that make a difference !
all of my mixture screws are 2.5.

A good way of setting the mixture screws is to use a sensitive tach that shows 1 rpm changes (the one on your bike isn't sensitive enough but they are cheap on ebay) then set the idle, adjust mixture screw #3 until the revs change, drop it back and set the idle with the idle screw again. repeat this for all 4 carbs

My bike idles nicely dead on 1250 rpm and returns to it regardless of temp.

As the paper filter made such a difference i am going to throw in the heat shield and see if that clears up the tiny hesitation around 8k.

 

Ok so the orgon rain has stopped and I got a chance to look at it more, I pulled the carbs and checked the mixture screws, carb one (left) was at 2 turns, all the others were at 2.75. I changed carb one to 2.75 and there wasn't a difference, I changed all four to 3 turns out and took it for a ride, when coming to a stop it returns to idle without needing to blip the throttle now so that's better, did I richen it or lean it by turning the screws out? Shouldn't I be trying to lean it more than stock because of my huge jets?

 

So I found out I had made it more rich by turning the screws out so today I turned them in 3/4 of a turn to 2.25 turns out, seems to run better but I'm getting some backfiring now, how do I know when too lean is TOO lean ? Last thing I want to do is melt something

 

Do you have any idea what brand the jets are? I'm also trying to figure out when carbs are too lean..

 

I don't, my jets are not stamped with any names or symbols, just the size, I went to 1 turn out from seated and it helped a bit but once it warms up it's bogging down a bit

 

Sounds too lean.. Is it bogging at high rpms? I had a similar issue and I turned my air/fuel mixture to 3 turns out. Now it runs better, I just have to adjust my air box to seal properly, and hook up the correct intake hoses to tune it properly.

 

Yea it's most certainly too lean, it only seems to bog down on the lower rpm range, up to about 6-7k, most noticeable when you try and just whack it wide open, I've began experimenting and pulling the choke in just barely seems to help a bit on the low end.

 

Anyone happen to be in the Portland Oregon area? I feel like I have to ride another f3 to see if I'm just crazy or if I'm actually having an issue. I talked to a guy at a local shop and he said the a/f adjustment screws only adjust the mixture on the "pilot circuit" and would make no difference above idle, this guy is mistaken correct?

 

He is more right than wrong. It actually plays a role throughout the entire range of the throttle. Having said that, between idle and 1/4th twist of the trottle. After that, it tapers off more and more until full throttle is reached.

 

Ok issue seems to be fixed, i have taken this thing apart so many times im pretty sure i could do it blindfolded, striped it down and cleaned it all again just to be sure, cleaned and oiled up the boots for a good seal, set the mixture 2.5 turns out, and what seems to have made the difference is i raised the needle clip one position to the second from the top. Now she starts with minimal choke, steady idle, and is a rocket above about 5k, all this work and im about to get an f4i, cant stand the carbs