i was thinking of racing my f3 as well since its paid for and no one wants to buy it

 

Nice video, that looks like so much fun.

Thanks for the tips, I will definitely be taking my time- I have all winter in northeastern Ohio. One thing I am curious about though, should there ever be a reason to wet sand the last color or clear coat? It seems like you would want the last coat to be veeerrry thin and untouched?

And when you say "spray paint", do you mean any paint will basically work? I would go ahead and order some Krylon, but I am very apprehensive. It seems like I should be using automotive touch up paint or something?

Thanks for the help, and great video. I would love to take my bike to the track someday.

 

Most rattle cans can be used for painting different materials. Just make sure the once you get say that it can be used on plastic. And good luck with it. At times you might get frastraited but cool down, get your head down and you'll end up with a very nice looking bike. Im not even mentioning the satisfaction you gonna get by looking at finished work.

 

That is just what I wanted to hear. Your bike is proof that a good, patient rattle can job can come out looking great. Here is the design I think I will be going with. The colors arent exactly final.

Thanks very much for the info, I cant wait to get started.

 

Hi,
I have many many questions for you! Since I have Buy one for CBR600F2 '94 to prepare for our participation in amateur competitions and would like to tell a little more about what and how you changed the engine on your CBR, What Sprocket KIT used - number of teeth in the front and rear and other improvements associated with the preparation of a motorcycle for track riding!

 

and INFO

 

Well ,i use different sprockets for different tracks. For slow tracks i use 48 rear and 13 front, for fast once 46 rear and 14 front. I run on 5 different race track a year so sprockets are different for each track.
Also, et yourself a 520 sprockets and chain as they are alot lighter which will help the bike accelerate faster.
The things you need to do for racing:
Racing brake pads,
racing suspention (i just ordered K-Tech 20SSK fork kit and new K-Tech springs as well - have a look at www.k-teck.uk.com),
jet kit for the carbs,
race rearsets (foot pegs),
drain coolant and replace it with water(its a requirement for race bikes),
move your ECU from the side of the bike to under the seat(will not be danaged in case of a crash),
good race brake fluid,
upgrade your master brake sylinder
quick action throttle,
second set of wheels with wets,
tyre warmers,
generator,
you will also need spare parts - handle bars, foot pegs, race fairings,
...... the list goes on and on mate. Im sure there is lots more to it but need to think.
Costing me well over 3000 euro to convert the bike and get bits and bobs and racing gear just to start racing and the mount does not include the cost of the bike either.

 

 

Thank you very much for the information - I want to ask just what stage is that you have set djetkit on his bike?
I already have set UP-Side "WP" forks from one ZXR with 18 steps OHLINS Steering Damper, Brakes, Wheels - everything is so KAWASAKI, I guess I've decided the problem with the bike's suspension - Rear Shock is further elaborated by "ORAM Suspension" and works more than perfect, pegs I accidentally chose the same as those whom thou hast set of Your bike (YOSHIMURA Universal) K & N filter, Ultra lighter and spoilers from CBR1000RR '08, intends to meet the mass of the motorcycle loaded 160-170 kilograms! What are the original sprocketwheels and what would you recommend me - Number of teeth front / rear Now I have to choose what "DJET KIT Stage???" I put the bike

 

I'm running stage 1 dynojet kit with full micron exhaust & k&n filter. As I said you need different size sprockets for different track. I run 13 front and 46 rear on one track. 14 front and 47 on another track. 13 front and 48 rear on another track. If its a slow track whith lots of slow speed corners then try 13 front 46 rear. If its a fast track with high speed corners then try 14 front 44-47 rear. Choose sprockets the way so you are in a power band( between 9000 and 11000 rpms) just past the apex. Remember one thing, when you lean your bike over rpms increase even at constant speed due to the fact that inside part of the tyre has smaller radius. So you really don't wanna be hitting revlimiter half way through the corner...