1. (Battery w everything off)- 13.09v
2. battery w key on- 12.4v
3. battery volts when cranking- 11.21v
4. yes I have neutral light on
5. Absolutely no spark at all.

additional notes

I even tried getting a spark while connecting my bike to my off car battery.
I took off 2 of the spark plug holders and inserted brand new plugs, yet no spark whatsoever.
I measured resistance for the spark plug holders and the ignition coils and they are in the right spec.
this test certainly is narrowing things down.

 

Im starting to think it’s a bad ICM. Here’s a couple reasons while.

my generator ignition pulse is within 480-500 ohms which checks out

my ignition coils are all around 2.7 ohms which checks out

my plug caps are 23 Kohms which checks out

The battery is a recently brought durlast that holds charge well

It cranks very hard and certain. It just doesn’t run

carbs were recently cleaned maybe 2 months ago by a trusted mechanic

wire inlet that goes inside the icm reads accurate numbers

The bike crank’s absolutely the same weather icm is plug in or out.

However you know more than me so I’ll wait for your opinion before making any costly purchases. Thanks

 

This would indicate low-battery. Has enough power to run ignition-system, but not enough to run starter AND ignition-system.

This is extremely large voltage drop. Might be marginally OK, but may be not. Try jumpstarting from auto-battery again and do same voltage measurements. Also try starting fluid again as well.

Ok, with no spark, let’s test for why.

9. Key ON, start/stop=RUN, measure voltage at ignition coil blk/wht wires, volts = ??

 

here’s the update

charged battery to 13v at rest with nothing on. Then with ignition on goes down to 12.5v
while cranking it goes to 11.6v
this test was while jumpstarting with auto battery
the blk/white wires by the coils held 12v and went down to 10.8 during cranking. Absolutely no spark.
My neutral and kickstand switch works completely fine. Maybe it’s my clutch switch? Although I’m not sure how to check the clutch switch.

conclusion
with your help Im able to narrow it down to either clutch switch or cdi box, but your input will also be valuable. Thanks brotha

 

No, still dead battery. When cranking, starter is robbing all available power, dropping voltage severely and leaving nothing to power ignitor.

Measure car battery voltage before connecting to bike, it’s probably dead too. Or your jumper cables are busted. Connect car battery back to car by using jumper cables between battery and battery cables. Then measure do those same 3 tests when starting car. What’s #1-3?

For example, here’s my VFR’s lithium battery coming out of 4-month’s winter storage.



I turn it on and let pump fill carbs for about 5-sec. Then crank it… voltage doesn’t drop too much.



After about 5-cranks, >VRROOM< !!

 

I see… which brand is that? My couldn’t even reach 13.5 if I left it on charge for a day