O-ring chain master link
#1
#2
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But I do, and I have for several years now because I never got a rivet dealio.
Just make sure it goes on the right way and is secured if you do.
If you have the money, and the time, and the patience, please avoid using it.
But if you are poor like me, cheers.
#4
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Guess the real question is: How hard do you ride?
I won't use a clip style master link and invested the $100 in a chain breaker / rivet tool. I did so because I figure I can't anticipate every situation nor how much I (or the road) may demand out of the chain. And obviously a clip isn't as secure as a rivet.
If you're generally just daily commuting / easing around town, I'd guess a clip will do ok. But I'd strongly recommend a rivet if your riding uses a lot of torque. Stunting, track, heavy acceleration / engine braking. More is being demanded from your chain under those circumstances. You want it to be as secure as possible.
I won't use a clip style master link and invested the $100 in a chain breaker / rivet tool. I did so because I figure I can't anticipate every situation nor how much I (or the road) may demand out of the chain. And obviously a clip isn't as secure as a rivet.
If you're generally just daily commuting / easing around town, I'd guess a clip will do ok. But I'd strongly recommend a rivet if your riding uses a lot of torque. Stunting, track, heavy acceleration / engine braking. More is being demanded from your chain under those circumstances. You want it to be as secure as possible.
#5
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Guess the real question is: How hard do you ride?
I won't use a clip style master link and invested the $100 in a chain breaker / rivet tool. I did so because I figure I can't anticipate every situation nor how much I (or the road) may demand out of the chain. And obviously a clip isn't as secure as a rivet.
If you're generally just daily commuting / easing around town, I'd guess a clip will do ok. But I'd strongly recommend a rivet if your riding uses a lot of torque. Stunting, track, heavy acceleration / engine braking. More is being demanded from your chain under those circumstances. You want it to be as secure as possible.
I won't use a clip style master link and invested the $100 in a chain breaker / rivet tool. I did so because I figure I can't anticipate every situation nor how much I (or the road) may demand out of the chain. And obviously a clip isn't as secure as a rivet.
If you're generally just daily commuting / easing around town, I'd guess a clip will do ok. But I'd strongly recommend a rivet if your riding uses a lot of torque. Stunting, track, heavy acceleration / engine braking. More is being demanded from your chain under those circumstances. You want it to be as secure as possible.
I ride mine hard though with a master link.
(though i am an idiot id guess)
and everyone said i was going to die with my old chain on.
there was so much slack you could jump rope with it.
But i didn't die, and my good ole' o-ring is still strong
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#6
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I used to use the clip master links on my dirtbikes and 4-wheeler but I wouldn't consider it on my F3. There's just way too much rotating mass and power and I wouldn't risk it to hold my chain at high speeds. I'm sure the risk isn't high, but rivet links are recommended by all motorcycle manufacturers and all chain distributors for our bikes. You think there's something to that?
A new master link is cheap and if you EVER have to break a chain or rivet another master link it's worth it to get your own tool.
A chain breaker/rivet tool is one of those things you want in your tool kit if you're going to own a bike, unless you're intending to take your bike to a dealer, in which case you've got money to burn. My opinion, pony up the $90 now and save yourself trouble in the long run.
A new master link is cheap and if you EVER have to break a chain or rivet another master link it's worth it to get your own tool.
A chain breaker/rivet tool is one of those things you want in your tool kit if you're going to own a bike, unless you're intending to take your bike to a dealer, in which case you've got money to burn. My opinion, pony up the $90 now and save yourself trouble in the long run.
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