Well that will certainly contribute to your issues.
a new tank that’s in good shape may be a tough find.
if yours is in otherwise good condition, there are several methods for cleaning the inside. It’s not overly difficult but does that time and patience.
One method is electrolysis. There are tons of YouTube videos concerning this. Take a look at a few and see if is something you want to tackle.

 

Apparently tested the coil pack as now have new gas and plugs are normal, spark plugs wires okay, would this warrant coil pack replacement I’ve read this makes a colder spark according to advrider.com.



Standard 2.5 - 3.1 (resistance)

3.7 above standard


3.6 above standard


Within range 21-25 resistance at 23.8. Wires okay.

 

Is there something living inside your tank creating milk? From number of times you've cleaned it and put fresh petrol in, it should be cleared. Maybe get USB borescope and take look around corners of tank, might be whole family of milk-producing creatures!!!

 

Well the acetone ruined the red kote and now the original rust has fallen off and landed into the carburetor and won’t go past 2,500rpm in gear.

using a KBS Coating Cycle Tank Cleaner Kit, and removing the carbs and cleaning.

turned out the spark plugs had wrong gap 0.031-0.035 the plugs were at 0.041 and above. Started right up.

Now there is clicking from the fuel pump, this is the 2nd first eBay and this Honda part. Have an aftermarket aluminum filter with a brass screen. Could that be causing a difference in pressure and need the original oem filter?

also put in EBC sport clutch springs and now the motorcycle makes a scraping sound from inside the engine when the clutch isn’t engaged. Could that be an adjustment required at the clutch case cover ?

 

I don't know about your clutch issue--I'd guess you have to open it up and look for scrape marks and go from there. It could be that increased tension on the new springs is highlighting a bearing or free play/wear issue. Hard to say.


On the gas tank, the thing that I have found most effective is good old apple cider vinegar. I has a super rusty tank and I filled up up 1/2 way, then rolled it around every couple of hours for a day and a half. I was blown away when it came out looking like new. Make sure to clean out with water, then use a heat gun or a hair dryer to purge the water. Maybe you have resolved this issue already?

Any idea on what that white stuff actually is? The carbs on this bike need to be super clean, so this stuff in the tank is a big issue.


Chay

 

also do not put any kind of coating on top of rust! It won't stick and will peel off quickly. Remove ALL rust 1st. Electrolysis is best to remove only rust and not damage good metal. Second best method is phosphoric acid (Naval jelly).

Once interior of tank is pristine, then you use one of those coatings. POR-15 kit is best. It had chemical conversion step to get rid of last bits of invisible rust. A rust-inhibitor primer. A degreaser and finally a coating layer. Not super-thick like others, so won't flake off as easily.

Personally I like metal coatings best. Most durable and flaking resistant. Nickel is good, so's tin. Avoid copper as it tarnishes and doesn't last as long.

 

This is the result of KBS Coating Fuel Tank Sealer kit. I did not mask off the tank big mistake now has to be washed or sanded. Turned out the spark plugs weren’t gapped properly even though I did this previously reason for no start.

 

That is a big difference. Great job.

 

Apparently the design of the tank if anyone else has encountered this keeps fluid inside the flanks and on the basil of the inside of the tank. Didn’t allow to dry enough and when put first coat of KBS cracked. The instructions say must restart and representative at KBS said you may double layer. The second layer puffed up and clogged the carburetor, again. Won’t start and stay started and sounds like a lawnmower. Anyone know what causes a clogged carburetor to cause a particular vehicle speed not to be obtained?

Ordered a used tank with a clean inside will just need a mild rust cleaning before using Damon Red Kote. The instructions are very detailed for encountering most scenarios when coating a tank.

 

DO NOT COAT TANK!!! It does not work. That's what started this mess to begin with.
Insanity is doing same things over and over again, expecting different results.

In my 40-yrs of riding, I have seen people make this mistakes over and over again. They never learn from other people's mistakes, then make their own. Some may need to make it multiple times before they learn:

DO NOT COAT TANK!!! Any coating you put on will eventually flake off and clog your petcock, pump and carbs!!

Do this instead:

1. Use electrolysis to remove ALL traces of rust.

2. Then immediately fill tank to keep air/oxygen off inner surface of tank

3. test petcock and fuel-puml flow-rate to ensure they're not clogged by previous coatings

4. as you use up tank, evaporated petrol vapours will keep air/oxygen from touching inner surface of tank

5. always keep sufficient petrol in tank to create enough petrol vapours to keep air/oxygen away

6. never ever let bike sit with empty tank