Okay, hello, have a rebuilt carburetor these are the oem. Just set pilot screw at 2 turns out, stock, stock jets and needle unfortunately don’t have the repair manual on me for specs.
When starting with an empty float bowl, choke on the #3 and #4 carburetor fill of fuel behind the butterfly valve #4 especially. #4 spraying out fuel and the direct air injection air hoses ejecting gasoline also. As of now won’t start due to too rich. However adjusting the pilot screw did nothing and then the motorcycle stopped turning over even with the battery connected to the tender. Never ending with this carburetor the previous owner lost all the bolts, or stripped them and had a 140 and larger needle. Any suggestions?

This chamber was full of fuel.


The slide became stuck open and those 4 brass colored holes fuel was spraying out of one.
Any suggestions?

 

Mikunis are fine for WOT and racing. But starting and idling isn't their strong point. You'll be chasing your tail in circles like this endlessly.

Get set of factory carbs. Problem solved. Done!

 

You beat me too it.
If you want the bike to run like it did from the factory, you have to start with factory parts.

 

My mistake these are the factory carburetors.

 

Looking at your pics, it looks like you might have been in the process of syncing carbs. How did that go?
Also, if your slide is sticking you generally have dirty carbs to deal with. Turning the pilot (fuel/air mixture) screws and that not having an effect is also another descriptor of carbs in need of care.
Since the previous owner didn't take care of the bike, my suggestion is to either send the carbs off to be gone through or dig in and do it yourself. It's not a complex job, it does take a few special tools and a considerable amount of patience.

 

Operation of the F4 carbs is going to be identical to the F3. Floats getting stuck is not uncommon. Take them apart again and verify the operation. Partzilla prices are high, but their diagrams are good for comparisons. If you need gaskets, then these are your best bet.
https://litetek.co/Carb_Kit_Honda_CBR600_1995-2000.html


The gaskets for the F3 and F4 are the same. At least item #2 is.
https://www.partzilla.com/product/ho...1c7a2ddce2082f

The floats are not the same.
Fuel line T fittings are the same as well.
https://www.partzilla.com/product/ho...b6ca5af905d6d5

Float needle valve is the same as well.

 

Thank you for these links. IDoDirt. This is very helpful. The float bowl gaskets were bent in the package and makes difficult getting a seal in the groove. I'll have an update tomorrow. One last question: When Syncing the Carburetor, first is Synchronizing, followed by 1) checking the RPM of each cylinder to adjust the pilot screw; 2) is completed by a drive test or 3) according to the manual 2 turns or 1 3/4 turns out is sufficient for the pilot screw? I'm completely considering taking this in somewhere to have completed though one rep gave a rough estimate of $1,000 to clean, pressure clean, and replace seals, o rings, gaskets and another said a diagnostic and includes synchronizing and tuning the pilots at the same time... I've already cleaned, replaced o rings, gaskets, washers, jets, needles, and now have a #3 and #4 float bowl adjustment issue from last time when had those open; vacuum leak test, synchronize and pilot screw adjust. Shouldn't require much else on stock jets. Have had this apart for 2.7 years trying to fix little by little and am the breaking point now, not too many shops here in Las Vegas, NV are very trustworthy, return phone calls, or answer the phone, or return a call.

This reminds me of a 2009 Kawasaki Ninja 250r, the fuel tank, rear subframe and rear wheel had to be removed to get to the carburetor to perform a rebuild and those pilot screws are covered by a cap, not sure what they did though had carburetor done and was fine. The CBR is beyond 10 years and this dealership won't perform service on it.

 

Carbs on 09 Ninja 250 can be removed sideways, leaving airbox, subframe and rear wheel in place.

I pull carbs from my race Ninja 250 twice per day @ track. Use 96 mains in morning when it's cooler. Switch to 94 mains in afternoon when it gets hotter

 

No kidding. Well that was first owned motorcycle and only have a Hayne’s repair manual that had that procedure. I was quoting the manual.

Has anyone had an issue with the CBR600F3 Clymer Vs Honda Shop Manual? One says sync carburetors to carburetor 2 and the other to carburetor 3. Also, performing a valve clearance the proper lube is assembly lube; not molybdenum grease and oil mixed together. Both manuals miss that step.

 

No manual is 100% accurate, but If I had to choose between the two, I'd choose the shop manual.
As to the syncing, think of it this way. Cylinder #3 doesn't have an adjustment screw. You really can't sync it to anything.
Concerning the Moly-B statement, the only thing I can say is I hate Moly-B. My younger self had to use it all the time while working on aircraft. We didn't dilute with anything either. There's probably still some of it down deep in my pores.