Hey guys, this is my first post and it's another "no start" thread. (Been lurking for a while though.)

We've been having massive storms here lately in north-east Australia and I unfortunately put my CBR under water (an F3 obviously!)

After pulling it all apart and drying everything out it will crank over and sound likes it is firing but won't continue to fire or idle.

After reading that it might be something electrical I have had a go at testing the resistance in various components according to the manual. I had never done this before and the auto-electrical side of it all is pretty new to me.

First I started with the Ignition Pulse Generator as advised by another thread and it was within the recommended range so I then tried the coils...

In the manual it states the range at the primary coils to be 2.5 - 3.1 ohms. The first coil I measured was 3.6/3.7 (it would fluctuate back and forth.) The second coil was a constant 3.5 ohms.

After all that, my main question is - is that enough to make a difference? I assume it could be the root of my problem as although it may only be 0.5 ohms out that's a lot in comparison to 2.5 - 3.1. Just thought I'd check with some more informed people before I went and got my hands on another set. (Oh and is there anywhere you would recommend for me to buy a set online?)

Cheers!

 

I'm no electronics expert by any means so take this for what it's worth. An ignition coil is just that, it's a coil of wire. Battery voltage is applied to that coil and it generates a magnetic field. When the voltage it taken away, the magnetic field collapses and generates a very high voltage for a short period of time which generates the spark. There are any number of things that could cause you to read those types of differences from what the specification is. Accuracy of your meter, quality of the connection to the coil are a couple. I think that you're safe with those readings. If you measured something significantly different like 50 ohms or 1k ohm, then I'd suspect them, but not .5 ohm difference. If you think about it, 0 ohms is a dead short. With a digital meter on a low scale it's common to see .1 or .2 ohms through just the leeds. Anyway, I think you've probably got other issues.

 

Before you take an ohms reading, zero out your multimeter by touching the 2 leads together. Your multimeter should read 0.0 ohms. If it doesn't you won't have an accurate reading. The readings you were getting could be enough to cause your problem, but with both of them being high, it most likely is something else. One thing I suggest doing, if your good on basic wire maintenance, is check over your wire harness. I got a 95 F3 and I had a lot of electrical problems with it. I looked over the entire harness and found a lot of corrosion on switches and contacts. After repairing those and cleaning the corrosion, most of my problems were gone.