If it's a Dynojet stage 1 kit, it'll work. I just checked the instructions for the stage 1 kit and that's the recommended setup for an aftermarket exhaust / high flow baflle slip on and a k & n filter. if that's not your setup, you'll be running very rich.

Another way to tell is something IDoDirt mentioned: do the slides in the carbs have drill holes in them? Dynojet is the only kit I know of that asks the person to drill the slides

 

Be careful there. All of the slides have holes in them from the factory, 2 of them. Thats how the engine vacuum gets to the upper half of the diaphram. The question would be, have the holes been drilled out larger. My problem is that since I've never seen a slide that's been drilled, I don't know if the size of the hole that you drill is only slightly larger than factory (which would make it tough to tell if it's been done), or significantly larger to the point that it's obvious it's been drilled.

Does anyone know what size the drill is that's included in the Stage 1 kit ?

 

Fraid the instructions don't specify the bit size. And my kit is packed away down in the basement so i can't grab to look if its printed on it.

The tapered needle is the best tell tho. OEM and Factory needles are all straight. Dynojet's needles are a patented taper design

 

The needles are tapered, but i cant tell if the slides have been drilled

 

Then it's a Dynojet needle in there. Given the sizes you stated, it's prolly a full Dynojet stage 1 kit. Might as well assume that whoever did the jetting also drilled the slides. Since the stage 1 kit comes with the drill bit, there's no reason not to do it.

That setup is for a modded bike, with aftermarket exhaust and air filter. Your bike should be fine with those settings. Won't be optimal cause that really requires some time spent on a dyno with a mechanic that knows what he's doing. So I'd not expect a massive power increase. But it'll be close and won't be the cause of any performance problems

 

these bikes are rated at 105 at the flywheel right? about how much would it be after all this?

 

Depends on the condition of your valvetrain and piston rings.

They usually make 93-95 on the wheel if done right.

 

All needles are tapered. That's the point of them sliding out as the speed of the engine increases. Now, how much of a taper and how rapidly they change may vary between manufacturers, but they're all tapered. Factory needles don't have clips. If you have clips, then they're not factory.

 

Sorry, guess I'm using the wrong terminology. The Dynojet needle isn't a straight taper.



Not from my carbs. If I get into them tomorrow I'll take a pic to compare. But you'll notice the stock needle pictured goes straight down to a point. While the DJ needles have a slight flair to them.