I have a 97 f3, its got 45000 miles on it, and it hesitates a lil at idle, ive noticed its starting to kinda pull harder and softer when climbing the rpm's, ive had it for the last 16k miles, so im assuming i need to do three things, Valve job, clean the carbs, and sync them, anythoughts on this? Where can i get a good carb sync tool from? Is this one any good?
Ebay style, cheap, is it effective?
or maybe this one
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/...synchromate_2/
(there's an adapter so it will work on 4 carbs)
i would venture a guess the first one might work, while the second one's gunna be a lot better, or if anyone know's where i can get a better one im open for critisizm
I also heard that www.carbtune.com is a good one
A few times when i clutched it up, the engine missed about half way up, was that the carb's acting up? Is this the kinda work with half a brain a book and proper tools i could do myself? I know how sensetive the carb's can be, but im decently mechanical, and ive read up on everything except the cleaning of the carb's cuz the clymer manual show's me how to rebuild them but not clean, or is that the same thing? Ive got an entire spare bike to guinie pig my work on, so i can practice on that. Thanks ahead of time for any advice, it'll be much appreciated.

 

I think I recall your post in the general section.

Carb syncs- don't watse money on the electrical ones...they are less accurate than gauges. Ihave an old mercury stick with is secodn to none in accuracy...but will bedumpingit for a carbtune myself....at the current exchange rate they are $105....and I never have to deal with mercury again. The gauge units are decent too....butthe process is much less visual than a carbtune or mercury stickis....you have to "read" the gauges.....the actual value doesn't matter, just thedifference in the value across all four.

You can handle cleaning carbs....just do one at a time. Carbs on these things don't need a "rebuilding" in the sense that an old car might have. A "rebuild" might be gaskets, and a new fuel valve needle/seat. And with only 45K (yes, I said "only"), I doubt you need to replace any parts.

A stumble could be worn out plugs too..... www.sparkplugs.com is a sponsor of the site....check them out, I've bought from them before, though in larger batches....just stick to NGK and you'll be fine.

A new fuel filter and air filterwould be a good idea too.

 

Yup that was me in the general, Thought i'd repost it again in here, see what kind of advice or perhaps' personal expierience's i could collect. I pulled one of the carb caseing's off of my spare set, all i could really see to take apart in their was a ?jet? i guess lil brass nipple that unscrewed, and a rectangular/oval plastic thingy that i diddnt try to take off but i read up on how its done, is that all i need to clean....kinda hard for me to see what needs to be cleaned, cuz the carb's i was messin with were supposedly cleaned within about 2 miles of when the bike they were on was wrecked....

 

You cna handle this....use a carb cleaner, and I usually do all the work with the included red tube ont eh spray nozzel. Look away when you spray things or get safety glasses....carb cleaner gives a pretty good burning sensation if you get it in your eyes. Some clean rags are good....and you can lay out 3-4 sheet of paper towels ona flat surface to work on and set part on. Lots of little parts, so just take your time and do one carb at a time.

The brass jet you see is the main jet, and you remove it with a medium size flat head screw driver. It handles fuel delivery in the upper 2/3 of the rpm range.

In a recessed hole on this same tower there is another jet, called the pilot. You'll need a small flat head screw driver to remove it....and do so carefully...push in against it as you turn it CCWto loosen it...if itstight the brass around the screw driver slotcanbreak off....pushing against it helps this.This pilot jet is usually the cause of issues, since its hole is smaller....much smaller than the main. Clean the jet and the passage way it was screwed into (with the little tube on the carb cleaner just give a shot up there).

The main jet is screwed into another brass piece, that is the needle jet...this often has an 8mm hex shape on the end....you can remove it, spray it, and blow it off and reinstall.

The tower these parts are on will have another opening...nothing is in it, but the passage leads to the idle screw and the choke. It doesn't sound like your running issues have anything to do with this part of the carb....so you can leave them alone. The idle screw is in another location on the carb, and is covered with a brass plug. The it leads to a very small hole in the carb throat on the engine side of the butterfly valve (the brass plate that rotates in the carb throat).

The plastic "thing" around these parts is called the float, and it keep the bowl from gettingtoo much fuel in it. As the fuel rises, it pushes a simple valve closed...you likely don't need to bother with removing or cleaning this either.

If you wish, on the side opposite the jets you can remove the plastic cap and take the slide out....sometimes the slides get sticky and don't move as they should....remove teh slide, spray the plastic off and wipe it with a clean rag...give a shot into the grooves it slides in in the carb body. Noneed to remove the needle from it. Sometimes the rubber diaphram swells and you have to let them sit a bit before you can get the edge of the diaphram to sit in its groove. You sometimes need to guide the needle back into its hole when you assembly this too.

Have fun....
JB

 

Nice, thx for the description, hopefully ill be doin it soon, ill let you know how it went [sm=interesting.gif][sm=hail.gif]