So about 3 days ago, I took my bike to school. Ran fine there and back. After about 2 hours of getting home I went out to the garage to start it and the garage smelled of gas very bad. Tried to start it and it sounded like it was flooded with gas. Was cranking for about 30 seconds then it actually started and sounded really rough.... (coughing almost) and gas started to drip out of the bottom of my exhaust (really weird I though)..... Since then I have not gotten it to start. Any places to start? I have taken everything apart already and before I go any further wanted to hear some ideas first. Thanks in advance to any help.

 

Float stuck open. And/or faulty petcock.

 

Okay well if it is the floats which I was in the process of working on already, how do you guys recommend dealing with this bolt?

 

Take a hack saw, cut a ridge in the head to make it a flathead...

 

I'll give it a try and let you guys know if the floats were the culprit. Thanks for advice as always guys!

 

+1 on what Conrice said. If you have issues doing that due to clearances, a Dremel tool will do the trick.

 

In the picture you took it looks like someone already cut slots in it for a flat head

 

Well in the pic that was my attempt to cut out a spot for flathead with a knife :P didn't think to use a hacksaw.


UPDATE #1: The hacksaw worked perfectly, went to the store and got all new hex head hardware for almost everything.


UPDATE #2: Got everything taken apart and cleaned in the carb. Didn't see anything obvious. Put it all back together and got it started (took 5 minutes of trying) and wasn't leaking gas. Drove it around the block seemed pretty good (Idling a little rough) but thought I fixed it. Got it home let it sit overnight and next day was leaking a little bit of gas. So I just ordered a whole rebuild kit with all new gaskets, new jets, fittings, and a new air filter. Figure that needs to be done either way and hopefully it fixes my problems. I think one of the float needles was a little wore out so I got new ones too. When all that comes in I will install it and update again. On another note I have never known how to adjust the carb (air to gas mixture screws). I know you need some kind of gauge to get them adjusted just right correct? Any advice on that would help. Would like to do it right this time around.

 

According to the Clymer manual for the F2 which Im sure would be the same for the F3 is.........To use a remote tachometer the is able to read 50rpm changes. Get the Clymer it'll be easier for you to read it yourself then me to type a whole page from the book.

 

Okay so I got my rebuild kit and am in the process of taking everything apart to get the carbs rebuit and I see this
... what does this mean? its hard to tell in the pic but the left most hole is filled with gas.....