handle bars
#12
A chizzle. Like what they use to scrape off small pieces of cement. The guy use to be a mechanic at the harley dealer so i trusted him with my bike. My forks are tightened now and the bike has been riding good. When the weather gets nice out i'll start taking pieces off to check the whole bike.
#13
#14
#15
The ONLY way to torque the steering-head nut properly is with the special
socket/adapter. Finding one is a pain and expensive for a one-use item.
(Hopefully, you upgraded to roller-bearings, which should last the rest of
the bike's life.)
Making one is feasible (and also quite the pain). If you want to be absolutely sure,
either spring for the adapter, make one, or pay someone with the proper tool to do
the final torque.
(Taking money for work when you don't have the proper tools/knowledge
and follow proper procedures, is criminal in my book. That, however, is an entirely different subject of discussion.)
That said....
I used a pipe-wrench and a spring scale (to measure the resistance turning side-to-side,
using a value listed in the manual). Doing so, hasn't caused any discernable
handling/safety issues, imo.
************************************************** *********
I DO NOT recommend ANY variation from the procedures defined in the manual for others.
I've been working on/riding bikes long enough, that in my judgement, the risk was acceptable for ME.
I almost didn't post the "that said" portion of my comment, but there are others on these
forums who have the knowledge/confidence to try similar 'short-cuts', as well.
Thus, I'm presenting that section for peer-review/comments.
************************************************** *********
Ern
socket/adapter. Finding one is a pain and expensive for a one-use item.
(Hopefully, you upgraded to roller-bearings, which should last the rest of
the bike's life.)
Making one is feasible (and also quite the pain). If you want to be absolutely sure,
either spring for the adapter, make one, or pay someone with the proper tool to do
the final torque.
(Taking money for work when you don't have the proper tools/knowledge
and follow proper procedures, is criminal in my book. That, however, is an entirely different subject of discussion.)
That said....
I used a pipe-wrench and a spring scale (to measure the resistance turning side-to-side,
using a value listed in the manual). Doing so, hasn't caused any discernable
handling/safety issues, imo.
************************************************** *********
I DO NOT recommend ANY variation from the procedures defined in the manual for others.
I've been working on/riding bikes long enough, that in my judgement, the risk was acceptable for ME.
I almost didn't post the "that said" portion of my comment, but there are others on these
forums who have the knowledge/confidence to try similar 'short-cuts', as well.
Thus, I'm presenting that section for peer-review/comments.
************************************************** *********
Ern
#16
The ONLY way to torque the steering-head nut properly is with the special
socket/adapter. Finding one is a pain and expensive for a one-use item.
(Hopefully, you upgraded to roller-bearings, which should last the rest of
the bike's life.)
Making one is feasible (and also quite the pain). If you want to be absolutely sure,
either spring for the adapter, make one, or pay someone with the proper tool to do
the final torque.
(Taking money for work when you don't have the proper tools/knowledge
and follow proper procedures, is criminal in my book. That, however, is an entirely different subject of discussion.)
That said....
I used a pipe-wrench and a spring scale (to measure the resistance turning side-to-side,
using a value listed in the manual). Doing so, hasn't caused any discernable
handling/safety issues, imo.
************************************************** *********
I DO NOT recommend ANY variation from the procedures defined in the manual for others.
I've been working on/riding bikes long enough, that in my judgement, the risk was acceptable for ME.
I almost didn't post the "that said" portion of my comment, but there are others on these
forums who have the knowledge/confidence to try similar 'short-cuts', as well.
Thus, I'm presenting that section for peer-review/comments.
************************************************** *********
Ern
socket/adapter. Finding one is a pain and expensive for a one-use item.
(Hopefully, you upgraded to roller-bearings, which should last the rest of
the bike's life.)
Making one is feasible (and also quite the pain). If you want to be absolutely sure,
either spring for the adapter, make one, or pay someone with the proper tool to do
the final torque.
(Taking money for work when you don't have the proper tools/knowledge
and follow proper procedures, is criminal in my book. That, however, is an entirely different subject of discussion.)
That said....
I used a pipe-wrench and a spring scale (to measure the resistance turning side-to-side,
using a value listed in the manual). Doing so, hasn't caused any discernable
handling/safety issues, imo.
************************************************** *********
I DO NOT recommend ANY variation from the procedures defined in the manual for others.
I've been working on/riding bikes long enough, that in my judgement, the risk was acceptable for ME.
I almost didn't post the "that said" portion of my comment, but there are others on these
forums who have the knowledge/confidence to try similar 'short-cuts', as well.
Thus, I'm presenting that section for peer-review/comments.
************************************************** *********
Ern
#17
#18
Being overly cautious in areas such as steering and suspension is a good thing. I've converted the steering head bearings on my '75 cb550 to the All ***** tapered bearings early last year and I think they're well worth the investment.
#19
A chizzle. Like what they use to scrape off small pieces of cement. The guy use to be a mechanic at the harley dealer so i trusted him with my bike. My forks are tightened now and the bike has been riding good. When the weather gets nice out i'll start taking pieces off to check the whole bike.
#20