CBR 600F3 1995 - 1998 CBR 600F3 Forum

Got my first bike.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #11  
Old 11-05-2013, 05:35 PM
dac181's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I got the bike to run for a piece today. I went and bought a simple push button ignition switch to bypass the ignition solenoid, poured a little gas in the carbs, full choke, and hit the button... Brrrrmmmm Brrrrmmmm haha. I'll get some pictures of how its done. It's only temporary and basically didn't want to buy a solenoid till I was sure it was bad and now I know it is. I found something else out too... The fuel pump the previous owner had on it worked but leaks like crazy and also the petcock on the tank is leaky. Anyone have suggestions or a link to a how-to on converting to gravity feed?
 
  #12  
Old 11-06-2013, 05:05 AM
jackojeff's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: east cheshire
Posts: 386
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by dac181
I got the bike to run for a piece today. I went and bought a simple push button ignition switch to bypass the ignition solenoid, poured a little gas in the carbs, full choke, and hit the button... Brrrrmmmm Brrrrmmmm haha. I'll get some pictures of how its done. It's only temporary and basically didn't want to buy a solenoid till I was sure it was bad and now I know it is. I found something else out too... The fuel pump the previous owner had on it worked but leaks like crazy and also the petcock on the tank is leaky. Anyone have suggestions or a link to a how-to on converting to gravity feed?
yes but i wouldnt go that route, the ram air pressurises your floats so it lets more fuel in and gravity feed doesnt feed in enough fuel, show me were the fuel pump leaks, mine leaked and it just needed some jubilee clips on the rubber hoses if not pull it apart and replace the rubber seals, trust me its better to keep the fuel pump.

were is the petcock leaking from? the fuel outlet or the tank? if its the tank get a new seal from honda and tighten it right up, mine leaks unless extra tight, if its at the fuel outlet then its an o-ring inside it i believe also get one from honda and replace although mine leaks out of the outlet has done for years never bothered me just means i have to clamp the fuel line when removing the tank
 
  #13  
Old 11-06-2013, 05:09 AM
jackojeff's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: east cheshire
Posts: 386
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by dac181
Thanks for all the suggestions! bump starting atm is out of the question for the time being. I have nothing to hold the gas tank or seat on, bolts are gone. To answer a few more questions, the solenoid is not getting warm but the pair solenoid valve is, thats the thing with tubes from air box running to it right? It has oil residue inside but nothing is pouring out. I checked the oil level in the bike and its topped off and surprisingly clean. I'm so use to working on cars and understanding what goes where and this bike is throwing me for a loop, doesn't help that it all came like this. Had I tore it down I'd know a little more but everyone here is amazing. By far the best forum I've been a member of in a while.

Not the best pic but I think you can see what I'm about to ask about, what is this? Its on the bottom left side of the engine above the headers.
there is meant to be a pipe off that, that goes to the coolant pump were the other pipe in the picture goes to, either buy second hand or samco HON-73 comes with one i believe.

yess the PAIR valve has two parts just under the headers a big ugly box then attaches to the air box, pull it off and plug the hole in the air box and make some metal plates for the outlets on the head or buy an air box and head off a NON pair valve model such as the UK model
 
  #14  
Old 11-06-2013, 05:11 AM
jackojeff's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: east cheshire
Posts: 386
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Name:  image.jpg
Views: 127
Size:  89.6 KB
thats the pair valve
 
  #15  
Old 11-06-2013, 04:56 PM
dac181's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Has anyone tried the universal fuel pumps from auto zone? Picked one up gonna try it when get home.

EDIT: So the pump I picked up is a Mr. Gasket universal import 4-6 cylinder carburated engine fuel pump. It's a little cube looking pump and provide 2 - 3.5 psi and 42 GPH. I'm wondering if I can wire it into the stock fuel pump circuit and it operate the way the stock one does. It is NOT a plunger type pump, its an electric motor type. I've read where some folks were using pumps from a 84 Honda Accord but no one had one in stock at a reasonable rate. Our local NAPA had one in store but wanted $70 for it. This little pump I have now was $50 after taxes. If it works I'm going to be ecstatic, but if it doesn't I'll save it and when I need drain the tank on the bike or my quad I'll have a little pump that can do it.

Here's a link to the pump:
Mr. Gasket brand | Part #: 42S
 

Last edited by dac181; 11-07-2013 at 01:28 AM.
  #16  
Old 11-08-2013, 10:34 PM
dac181's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by jackojeff

thats the pair valve
So all I need to do is remove the pair valve, fashion a block off plate from say 1/8th inch plate and call it done? What is the valve supposed to do? I live in MS so emissions is no big deal if that's what it's for.
 
  #17  
Old 11-09-2013, 12:15 AM
Zachy72's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: SoCal
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by dac181
Has anyone tried the universal fuel pumps from auto zone? Picked one up gonna try it when get home.

EDIT: So the pump I picked up is a Mr. Gasket universal import 4-6 cylinder carburated engine fuel pump. It's a little cube looking pump and provide 2 - 3.5 psi and 42 GPH. I'm wondering if I can wire it into the stock fuel pump circuit and it operate the way the stock one does. It is NOT a plunger type pump, its an electric motor type. I've read where some folks were using pumps from a 84 Honda Accord but no one had one in stock at a reasonable rate. Our local NAPA had one in store but wanted $70 for it. This little pump I have now was $50 after taxes. If it works I'm going to be ecstatic, but if it doesn't I'll save it and when I need drain the tank on the bike or my quad I'll have a little pump that can do it.

Here's a link to the pump:
Mr. Gasket brand | Part #: 42S

If your fuel pump doesn't work out I have both the fuel pump from the 84 Accord - 0 miles on it and a fuel pump to either an F3 or F4. If you need to go that route i'm sure we could work something out.
 
  #18  
Old 11-09-2013, 12:56 AM
dac181's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Zachy72
If your fuel pump doesn't work out I have both the fuel pump from the 84 Accord - 0 miles on it and a fuel pump to either an F3 or F4. If you need to go that route i'm sure we could work something out.
Thanks for the head's up. I have both my Camaro and the bike to do fuel pump work on tmrw morning. Camaro first so I can hopefully get it sold for bike funds.
So that's first on the list for in the morning then I'll work on the bike till I gotta get ready for work at 3:30pm.
 
  #19  
Old 11-09-2013, 02:08 PM
dac181's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Found out the factory pump wiring will work the pump I bought. Was pretty sure it would but not certain. Tested it today and it works great, now I just have to figure out where my soldering iron and solder is at... also gotta figure out if I want to use a 90 degree elbow on the pump with a small piece of fuel line between the pump, filter, and petcock or use the filter that came with the pump. Thinking I'm gonna go with the elbow and put a fuel pressure regulator in line to the carbs to keep the pump from flooding them on start up. Anyone know exactly how much pressure it is the float valve require to close/open?
 
  #20  
Old 11-11-2013, 08:29 AM
jackojeff's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: east cheshire
Posts: 386
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by dac181
So all I need to do is remove the pair valve, fashion a block off plate from say 1/8th inch plate and call it done? What is the valve supposed to do? I live in MS so emissions is no big deal if that's what it's for.
yeah you will need 2 block off plates as there are 2 points into the head and yes 1/8th thick plate will work very well i used thinner but not as good so got some 1/8th in the post

its an emissions device it pumps fresh air into the head on the exhaust stroke to make the emissions read lower just a POS that needs removing, if you ever get head work done get a head without the pair valve ports it makes life a lot easier.

oh and you need to block off the airbox were the pipe connects from the PAIR valve and then put a block off connector on the vacuum nipple on the inlet these can be bought from any honda dealer
 

Last edited by jackojeff; 11-11-2013 at 08:33 AM.



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:18 PM.