June or july of last season was the last time the bike ran. It also died on that day too.The battery had a full charg but after riding it for about 10-15 mins, stopping for lunch and then trying to start it again the battery was drained. My friend and i bump started it and got it running but it wouldnt stay running, we had to keep the rpms up. It sounded like it was missing too. Today i installed a new battery, plugs and swapped the regulator and got it running. Only thing is that it wont idle and the charging system is charging at 16 volts.Italso sounds like its breaking up a little bit when i rev it up. Any suggestions on what i might try next?

 

It sounds to me like the dreaded regulator death rattle, that would explain why your bike shat itself before storage & why your getting a bad voltage read now.

Oops, you say you have replaced the reg (should learn to read proper) although me spellins gud.
Only other suggestion would be the altenator, but their usually pretty solid.

 

i did a motor swap on my f3 i got it started the first time it wouldnt idle when i reved it it sounded like **** turned out that i need the carb rebuilt i didnt check the volts though. maybe hopfully you just got the spark wires mixed lol that be an easy fix carb rebuild is a little expensive i tried it at first seemed easy but when i put it back together it still didnt work just wanted to try had shop do it cost 600.00 that included a full check up compression check and a stage 1 jet kit I guess wasnt that bad but the bike runs great!! best luck that **** gets agravating

 

clean the carbs??

 

You're going to fry the battery with charging system dumping in 16V. There aren't too many reasons for the charging system to over charge like it is. I would check the continuity in a couple places (some should have and should should not have continuity).

1. Start with unplugging the R/R.
2. Take a digital multimeter and set it for testing continuity.
3. Stike one probe into the back of the plug where theRed/White (positive +)wire is located.
4. Take the other probe and stick it into back of the R/R plug where the Green wire (ground -) comes in. There should be no continuity (Meter doesn't chime).
5. Take the probe from the Green wire and touch the ground on the frame just below the R/R. There should be no continuity (Meter doesn't chime)
6. Take the probe from the Red/White wire and stick into the back of the plug where the Green wire is. Take the other probe and stick to the ground on the frame just below the R/R. The Meter should chime (There is continuity).

If everything is correct, then you have a bad R/R or a bad connector. I would put my money on the R/R. My guess is that you bought one from eBay (something like that) that was cheaper but claimed to be just as good, if not better than the current OEM from Honda. I came across a guy on here who bought a cheap knock off R/R that failed out of the box and it was doing exactly what your's is doing. Trynot to run the bike too much with it over charging because it will cook your new battery.

 

youre exactly right, i did buy it off ebay. Ill have to run the tests you mentioned. Thanks.

 

16 volts does sound like a bad R/R. I'd also check to make sure the harnesses are all in good condition.

I've also read about people getting new R/Rs from eBay and them failing soon after. I picked up a GSXR unit that I plan on using, but I also read that the newer Honda R/Rs have cooling fins and work better.

 

When there is 16V coming out of the charging system, there is a problem. The battery can be cooked if the problem isn't fixed. The operation range is 13V to 15V and the peak should be when at 5K rpm. When the charging system is overcharging like this,it could be a R/R or a bad connector... just have to do a few inspections and tests to find out.
By the way mk929, check the connection between the stator and the bike harness. It will often get hot and melt together.If it does need to be replaced,you canget a repair kit from Honda. Some guys just solder the wires together but I like to be able to disconnect the stator if whenworking on the bike. The statorplug is is the large white 3 prongconnector that is located under the tank.
MikeInCTown, You arerightabout the new OEM Honda R/R's having cooling fins on them. My R/R went out couple years ago and I went with the OEM. Been good to me thus far. There is also a write in the how to section of the forum regarding the use of aGSXR R/R into an F3 harness.

 

So do you think that the idling problem could bebecause of the the rectifier? or do you think thats a whole different problem?

 

The reason whya bike might have idling issues isbecause the battery is too dead. When the bike is idling, the battery is essentially not being charged. When the battery get to be around 12V or less, the bike will start to have idling issues. Idling issues are usuallya symtom of what might be a larger issue,like the R/R failing. But I'm not saying that there could be an issue with the carbs being dirty, I just recomend checking things out before assuming the carbs need to be cleaned.