Rejected the bike, Rebuilt the carbs, aftermarket voltage regulator ( the stock RR is not that good) new battery, new plugs, new air filter.

Mods (slip on with medium baffling)
k&n air filter.
air solenoid bypass

jetting 135|138|138|135


After cleaning the plugs the bike will run. After riding the bike and getting to 3rd gear it refuses to take anymore throttle until I get to a slower speed (2nd gear). get the bike home and it starts fine, revs good. Put it in first and it dies under load (not the kickstand).
(This has happened multiple times after cleaning plugs.
when it gets under load it almost sounds like it’s running on 2-3 cylinders.

guys I’m losing my damn mind here. So much money and time and I’m beginning to think it’s something simple. Please open my mind to ideas

-I do dirt, the wise one. I’m counting on you

-DENALI

 

My initial instinct is that the carbs still need some love. They are very, very finicky when it comes to cleanliness. Also, did you balance them?

 

did not balance them. I’ll do that and update you all

 

Balancing is always good, but makes more of a difference while idling and not so much on the higher end. If the butterfly is open slightly more than another at 1/4 throttle, it's negligible. You've done the Air-Solenoid bypass so I don't know exactly what the impact is of that. The bike was designed with that in mind due to the higher pressure airflow that the carburetor sees above 20mkh. You're having problems and I can only suggest putting it back the way Honda intended it to work. The Air Vent Solenoid is controlled by the Pink wire coming from the speedometer. You want to make sure that all the hoses are connected properly.

 

update for those who are continuing to help me through my endeavors. After some process of elimination I decided to check the jet needles. Turns out it has dynojets which is a huge relief. Moved clip position up one slot, Cleaned the carbs again. Threw it back together. Added new iridium plugs. It’s now rideable (sort of) I’m tempted to put oem paper filter back on because I’m losing power at the top end. I synced the carbs. Would it make sense to do that? I have a k&n in there right now

 

I personally have not had good luck with K&N filters in my F3's. Tried in both of mine and performance was poor. OEM paper works fine.

 

Yea, what he said…….
if you read through the annals of this forum, this is a reoccurring question/debate. I personally have never used K&N on my bike but I’ve never had an issue with the OEM setup.

 

this is good to know from both of you. Thank you again. I would agree with both statements, it seems like when I do use the k&n the amount of airflow fluctuates and throws everything out of balance.

i will soon update you guys

 

Some advice I’ve given people in the past is if they want to have a different setup, go for it. But it’s a really good idea to get everything running properly in the original setup first. That way you have a known baseline from which to work. When you have a bike that’s had many owners it can be frustrating correcting all of their “fixes”. People forget that there are 16 individual fuel circuits that you are trying to get to act in unity.

 

Thanks again for the replies and help. I agree with you. So I rebuilt the carbs with oem kit. Paper filter and damn. It ran smooth as a whistle until……. 8k rpm’s. It WOULD NOT, Could not. Go past 8k. I’m thinking bigger main Jets. I have 135|138|138|135

any advice and or knowledge?
thanks again
-Denali