I decided to tackle the valve adjustments based on the great guide posted on this forum:

https://cbrforum.com/forum/stickies-...-guide-101969/

I measured and corrected the shim sizes on 4 valves.

I am now attempting re-assembly and low and behold was not sure which direction the lobes should be pointing when i put them back on.

You figure no problem look at the manual, I did and it appears that once i put 1 on TDC i can place them according to the picture.

My problem is that i can no longer turn the crankshaft to put it at tdc. I have the intake cam on, no cam gears and the chain doesnt appear stuck.



Any suggestions?

Thanks

** Edit:
I can turn the crankshaft counterclockwise but not clockwise. Im working on getting the cam lobes lined up now.

 

As long as you didn't remove the sprockets from the camshafts, just line up the timing marks

 

Just make sure you use thread lock on those cam sprocket bolts it would be catastrophic if one backed out.

 

Also another thing know one tells you is there is really two TDC's. Once you set the crank shaft take a really long screw driver and set it in the #1 spark plug hole and make sure the cylinder is up. If its not turn the crank around one more time till it is. (one mark will raise #1 and another will have #3 at the top), Hope that makes sense.

Also back to your question, as long as the cams don't move it doesn't matter which way you turn the crank. But if its sticking on you, you need to pull the plugs as that means you are fighting the compression.



edit: sorry it took me so long for a reply, I wasn't online much yesterday and didn't notice your question.

 

ok so 20 hours later and i have a much better understanding of this whole thing.

Turning the crankshaft counter clockwise was easily done because the cam chain was not attached to anythign therefore would not hurt anything. If the cam chain was hooked up to the sprockets than counter clockwise would either unthread the bolt that your turning or skip the cam chain on the gears.

My valves are now adjusted and the head cover has been placed back on... tonight ill get the carbs back on and blow her up, ... i mean try to start her.

Thanks guys, sorry for the beginner type questions but your repsonses are all very much appreciated.

 

First time doing a valve job can be difficult. Glad to hear that you have a good understanding of it all now. How bad was your valve's out? And also let us know how she does when you go to start her up.

 

2 intake valves where at .12

2 exhaust valves where at .17

everything else was fairly close to the spec.

i have one of the intakes about spot on .16 now and the other is a little high .19

the exhausts both measure at .21 now.

Since this is my first valve job i will be a little cautious around the first start of the bike. is there any way to reduce risk if i messed soemthing up? such as doing a hand crank compression test or something?

When i get home tonight i plan on puting the carbs back on the bike and cranking her around, just hope i dont screw a piston or soemthing.

thanks
dan

 

I've never heard of a way to test it other than to just crank it. Its kinda one of those all or nothing type deals. Only thing is did you psychically check the Number #1 piston when you set the crank at TDC to make sure it was up? If not there is a 50/50 chance you could be 180 degree's out of timing which could lead to bent valve's as soon as you crank it.

I had to learn that the hard way putting a timing belt on a car. Other then that you should be good for a first start up. Hopefully a happy motor also.


EDIT: Also don't be surprised if it runs like crap for awhile once you fire it up, It should smooth out pretty quick though.

 

i did not physically check the #1 piston however i did make sure that the in and ex marks lined up and that i was able to get a proper measurement from the gap on the #1 intake. is that enough proof?

or should i set the in and ex marks and still set a screwdriver in the #1 spark plug hole?

thanks for your help.

 

I'd still try to check it with a screw driver or anything skinny and long that won't get lost in the piston. Better to be safe then sorry. you don't have to worry about taking the valve cover back off, if you haven't spun the motor since you set it in time. Just check pistons 1 and 3, 1 will be full up, and 3 will be full down. cylinders 2 and 4 will be mid way so its best to check off of cylinders 1 and 3. But if you wanna be 100% sure its all set right, leave the screw driver or whatever you chose in there and hand turn the crank and watch it go up and down, watch the cams and make sure every-time the piston comes up the cams hit the right mark.

just checking the valves as it is set to the TDC mark won't tell you where the piston is truly at. ( I tried to type it out the reason why, but its hard to explain, LOL ) basically moving the crank to a different place on the cam chain would still make the cams and valve's move same as they always would, You just run the risk of the piston hitting the valve as it spins.



look at it this way, its just about an extra 15 to 30 mins and it could save you big $$$$....

Other than that, let her rip and let us know if she fires up.