Hi,

I'm looking to make some cosmetic improvement to the surface corrosion on my F3. I'm not ready to do a full strip down and powder coat. I've attached some pictures of some of the areas (these are the main areas but I may treat a few others).

Does anyone have suggestions for the best technique and products to use for the frame and crankcase corrosion in the picture.

At the moment I'm thinking to rub down the rust, treat it with one of the various 'straight to rust' primers that are available and then spray with a suitable paint that is a reasonable match.

My questions are:

1) Would you agree with this approach?
2) What products have you successfully used (ideally products available in the UK but don't worry if not)
3) Any suggestions on how to get a reasonable colour match?

Thank you - and Happy Christmas!

 

Hey there.
Your approach is good. Just be sure to get it scuffed down smooth prior to priming. This will help immensely.
As to the color, do a search for "NH-211M alumite silver metallic". That is the correct color and is a common Honda frame paint. Here in the states, I used a brand called Dupli-Color. It was a perfect match for my '98 f3. My spots were smaller than yours but after I was finished, you couldn't tell it from original.

 

That's really helpful and gives me optimism - thank you.

 

Don’t believe those rust-coverup spiels, pure marketing BS and is temporary 10-yr solution at best. Rust can creep and spread even underneath paint. It’s sympathetic reaction between ferric and ferrous oxide where they pass captured oxygen back & forth. For best results:

1. Physically remove as much rust as possible. Sand and wire-brush off as much rust as possible. Small wire-wheel on drill works well.

2. Use surface cleaner, chemical treatment and prep. POR-15 has good kit: https://por15.com/collections/all/pr...42968546410663

3. Spray on regular sanding primer, then sand

4. Spray on top colour layer

Now you’ve got surface that’ll last +50yrs as long as it doesn’t get too banged up and bare metal exposed. Do best job possible so you won’t ever have to it again.

 

Thank you.

Would you not include a lacquer? I really don't understand the science of paint.

I've had a recommendation that Holts (Simoniz) Steel Wheels spray is a reasonable match for the frame. However, I'm not sure whether that's from someone who has actually tried it. Does anyone have experience of this or any other standard colour? I'm finding it very difficult to source the NH-211M colour code here in the UK and I'd be happy with a reasonable match.

 

Lacquer for step #4 top coat won’t be durable. It’s single-part paint and is too stiff. If banged lightly, it’ll chip. Need to use modern 2-part catalysed paint like polyurethane. It’s much tougher than lacquer and won’t chip off then stuff bangs into it.

You can typically get from auto-paint shop in spray cans that include activator catalyst contained in glass bubble inside can. Then when you shake it, glass breaks and catalyst reaction starts. Typically have about 4-hrs to use spray can before paint hardens.

However, you have to do surface-prep steps #1-3 perfectly beforehand, otherwise paint won’t stick. Or rust will reappear in 3-5yrs and bubble off paint.


BTW - paint colour-matching is not even problem. Auto-paint store has a gun they aim at good section of paint and it scans colour. Tells mixing-machine exactly how to mix proportions to match that exactly. Better than using factory colour-code because paint will have faded with sun and weather over the years. You want to match what’s on bike right now, not what it had when leaving factory.

 

Your keys are doing a number on the paint of the top clamp.
cover the keys or keep them separate than rattling around once you get it refinished

 

How would you treat the engine covers once they are taken back to bare metal to get rid of the corrosion?

 

Aluminium requires different surface-treatment than steel...