CCT
mine is still stock, will keep an ear out for the rattle. I think I will stick with an OEM one because they are cheap and the one on my bike has lasted 10 years so far and is still going, plus I wouldn't have to adjust it once its replaced. I can see the plus of a manual one.
I think the new OEM's are made to last longer than the originals but they still fail after a while, the manual ones never fail.
Just something to think about, how many do you want to replace before it adds up to the cost of a manual?
Just something to think about, how many do you want to replace before it adds up to the cost of a manual?
Hey Mike, I just replaced mine last May and it had 44,000 miles on it. I decided to go withthe OEM CCT also because it was the same price as a manual and well... the last one lasted so long. I think you're making a good choice with the OEM CCT. All I did was pull it out after removing the side fairing. The new one went with just as much smoothly. Pull out the little stopper tool, you'll hear the tensioner push out (The long gray piece below the gasket in Hershey's picture). I cranked the engine (clockwise) over by hand a few rotations of the engine. This can be done by taking off the pulse generator rotor cap. After putting everything back together, start it up.
I just wanted to turn over the engine by hand to ensure everything seated properly. There is an o-ring on the pulse generator cover which can be reused. I'm sure it's excessive... but I like error on the side of caution.
fair enough, I was looking through my haines manual yesterday
and it didn't say anything about turning the engine by hand, looks like a 15 minute job max - think I will use a screwdriver rather than fabricating a key for the CCT, although like I said earlier mine seems ok at the moment (touch wood).
and it didn't say anything about turning the engine by hand, looks like a 15 minute job max - think I will use a screwdriver rather than fabricating a key for the CCT, although like I said earlier mine seems ok at the moment (touch wood).
It is about a 15 - 20 minute job. There won't be a need to take draw the tensioner up since you're taking it out. The CCT that I bought came with a littlekey already inserted into it. When it comes from the factory, the CCT is completely pulled up. When you pull the key out, the tensioner pops out. I kept the little key just incase I need it in the future for things like checking the valve lash.


