are you talking about the Velocity stacks ?

(the stacks that sit on top of the carbs and go into the air box?)

Shouldn't have any movement. They are grooved on the bottom and should be locked into place onto of the carbs.

 

yup thats them, velocity stacks all button down the bike still wouldnt stay running, barley ran at all.


Check compression and it was at 150. went to put spark plug back in and the son of a **** spark plug broke off of its thread inside the #1 cyl.

now i have a spark plug in hand with the threads stuck screwed into the cyl..


Now im really screwed hahaha... gotta love this ****.

 

Dang man that's horrible.
You have about the same luck as I do, lol


Can't see the bit size's on there website but this is gonna be your new best friend: Buy Hanson Screw Extractor HAN53535 at Advance Auto Parts

 

screw extractor did the trick with a little bit of sleep .

used electrical tape and a 7.5 mm socket. taped it all together with black electrical tape.

Extractor shot 2 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

I just got home with the new plug so we will see where she goes from here.

Oh yeah i brought the broken plug to cycle gear (where i bought the plugs) and the guy was beyond shocked, "how the hell did you get that out"lol.

 

Yeah no doubt, I bought a car off a guy for scrap price because he did the same thing. It wouldn't come out no matter what I did. I ended up having to pull the head and take it to the shop to have it milled out and a slug installed to make it the same size as the rest.

 

new plug in and a bit of twisting and turning on the carb sync screws and idle adjust and...

she starts up revs quickly to 6k then drops to a pretty solid 4k idle (full choke)

The bike is warmed up and will shut off as soon as the choke is let in.

the number 2 and 4 cycl is registering below 0 psi

number 1 and 4 cyl are registering about 10psi

still working on her but progress is being made

 

She runs


Now it seems it's just fine tuning in the carbs.

 

Still trying to tune her, got her running strong at 3k, same problem with the choke and as you can see by the guages she is steady on one but the needle jumps alot on the others.

not sure what adjustments to make from here , thinking they all need to go in or out more

Carb sync - YouTube

oh and she still dies immediately when warm and turning the choke off which i think means im running too lean?

 

It dies even if you give it gas by hand?


I just ask because you may just not have the idle screw (the main one under the seat) set high enough.

 

i just tried holding down the throttle a little bit while taking choke off and she still died right away.

ive tried messing with the idle adjust screw both ways and it def controls the idle rpms... something is a bit off here... not sure if i should turn out or in all screws 2 turns and then start over or something, which i knew what stock setting was such as two turns out from fully tightened or what not mine are at around 7 turns back.(throttle body sync screws)


is it really this much of a fine art? jeesh, if i knew creativity was needed i might have opted out .. lol

ive read through alot of info but so far all i have is match everything to #3, there are three screw which are for 1,2,4.

i thought the middle screw was for synching the left pair with the right pair, is there another screw in the middle im missing somewhere? im messing with a total of three screws on the carb if you dont include the idle adjust.