Clymer manual confirms:

 

a valve adjustment 2 turns out on the air/mix screw and a new battery and she is still struggling to get going.... sounds like she wants to start but doesnt...

I added a bit of throttle and she eventually blew a big flame out of the muffler.(sorry no video lol)

While trying to start the bike there is a little bit of white smoke coming out the back which im hoping is condensation as i read this could mean many other bad things...

first couple of turns no smoke .. the next few turns little bit of white smoke and a growl every other seconds

smelling the exhaust smells like gass, although i cant say for sure.

at the end of the clip i hit the throttle a little bit , the smoke is white and not dark like it looks in the video

Smoken joe alright - YouTube


pulled a plug and its moist, im guessing since im flooding the engine but any input on what they think the liquid is would be appreciated, looks like oil to me.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tSnDkrv3BUo


I only pulled one plug as i have poker night tonight

back to playing with the idle screw i go.

 

You should clean your plugs really good with a wire brush and try again first.

 

You know...this reminds me a lot of an issue I had as well. I ended up disconnecting the hoses that lead from the tank -> filter -> pump -> carb lines. Disconnected them all, opened the gas tank to relieve pressure (now that I think about it, it really wouldn't since there already is that hose that is meant to relieve pressure) and put them all back together.

Had key out of ignition, made sure peacock was to the on position, put key in ignition, let it sit like that for a minute so the fuel pump would pump gas into the lines and push the air out of the gas lines and system, then cranked the bike. Started almost instantly. I likely had a vacuum leak in the lines or air was trapped somehow in the gas lines.

I realize you see crud on your plugs, and yes, that very well could be gas, but your A/F mixture pressure could be REALLY high (high air, very little fuel) and causing the gas to not burn and spark.

Try it out, let us know how it goes.

 

ok so im coming to witts end with this thing... I cleaned the plugs ( didnt have a wire brush so i used towels and fine sandpaper just to knock off the crud)

She sounds like she growls more often now so perhaps she wasnt firing on all cyclendars before but shuuld be now.



List of things I have done thus far:
New plugs
De-rusted Tank and put in fresh gas(she wasnt that bad but needed it)
Fresh engine coolant
Topped off oil (will do oil change after i get her running)
Adjusted Valvs (every valve is within .03 variance)
Cleaned Carbs
New Stage 1 Dynojets
New throttle cables
New Battery
adjusted carb throttleplate screws(carb sync screws) with micrometer to get them close(measured between screw plates which are all around 9mm)
set air/mix fuel screw to 2 turns out
removed the slow idle air selaniod (i know this isnt the correct technical name) and put the left tube from the dual ram air to the carb where it connects two tubes with a T.


The only next steps i have are:
check each plug for spark
check each cyl for compression readings
check to ensure throttle cables are secured correctly and arent being pintched


With the throttle cables not secured to carbs and the air mix screw at 1 the bike actually started right up but then would quickly jump to 6k revs before i hit the kill switch.

I secured the throttle cables and adjusted the air/mix to 2 turns out and then no dice.

I have a set of carb synch guages but not sure they will be of any help until the bike is actually running.

After i go through the top items i have to check im fresh out of ideas and may have to take her into a shop soon. Im just curious what they are going to do differently to diagnose the problem and get her running.

 

I know this sounds crappy, but you really just need to keep playing with it more. Crank it giving it gas, make sure you keep clean plugs in it, once it fires DO NOT let it die. Just try to keep it at a decent rpm to warm up and set your idle screw. Until it is set correctly the bike will be a B!tch to start, if the carb baffles are not in the correct spot it lets in to much or too little air.

EDIT: best way I've found to start a bike after carb work is: step 1 (crank the motor, and work the idle screw till you get it to the spot where it sounds like it is hitting) step 2 (walk away for about 30 mins) step 3 (clean the plugs and put them back in) step 4 (crank the motor and when it sounds like it is just about to hit, tap gas) step 5 (if it started keep the rpms up *basically anything to keep it running* just don't go higher than 8 or 9 grand *and only then for just a split second) step 6 (let it warm up fully, then work the idle screw to the correct setting) step 7 (shut off bike, drink a beer, then restart it without fighting just to make sure she fires up)

Also remember 6 grand will not blow up your motor! I know its loud as hell and sounds bad, but you won't do any harm to it, thats not even close to redline.

The smoke is a by product of carb work, the cleaner you used and also anything else will make the motor smoke the first time you start it, it will smoke for a few mins then should clear right up.

 

i think your right on. I got the bike running for a bit, playing with the idle adjust got her stable at about 4k.

then she shut off, tried to restart it and it goes up to 4k rpm and then dies quickly, start again, up to 4k for 2 seconds then dies.

pipe smells like potent gas, am i now back to air/fuel mixture if my idle adjust screw is all the way counter clockwise?

the smoke seems to have subsided, combo of carb cleaner and some oil from putting back in the cam holder bolts.

think its just flooding now...

 

Could be, those dyno jet kits are well known for being a headache.

I think your heading in the right direction now though.

I would put the screw's back to 1 turn like you did the other day and she fired right up.

See if you can keep it running by playing with the gas handle once it starts, the most important thing is to get it warmed up so you can set the idle screw to the correct idle.

 

i agree with the one turn ... heading back under the tank now

 

stupid question but are the air baffles in the air box supposed to be loose or locked down with the bottom of the airbox to the carbs? right now mine are locked in by the u shaped braket but have a lot of back and forth comevement.