P, don't give up... now, unless somebody at the factory, added/deleated /substituted, inferior genuine honda parts... aw, probably not (fiercly lowal crew)... than its trouble shootable and repairable!!!!!!!! HONEST!!!!!!!!!!

Than choke on thing, says to me,IMHO, air bleeds icky, or a honda thing... EMULSION TUBES !!!!!!!!! they are the brass tube, the main jet scews into.. in each carb, they can be gentaly tapped up^, from the float bowl side. they have tiny holes, along the tube and help atomize the mix as the needle pulls up, and progressivly, uncovers them w/ the needle taper. They are notorious(now, ya tell me !!!!) for plugging up w/ bikes that have sat. I have cleaned and re cleaned carbs... to still have a chatery dead spot, still freak'n me out !!!!!!!! I'm sorry, the,w/ choke runs better jogged my dirt bike troubleshooting exp. I'll bet there all palugged!!!!!!! I like to use a broom or nylon brush bristel, or maybe a single wire brush "strand," nothing that will deform or engarge them... dont ask me about soldering up a botched port job( more, bigger= faster!!! not.) on these tiny holes !!!!!!!! People generaly don't think/know about them little buggers. so don't be hard on your self!!!!!!

I'll just bet, thats the problem.

Emulsion tubes... hmmm... sometimes when an older(high mi. ) bike, just wont run steady, or crisp, in the mid+ range any more, the needles, have "elongated" the tubes... alowing the needles, to" chatter" around and intermitently/inconsistantly, wierd out, the flow from the main jet, and ability to pull/ mix, thru these tiny holes, into the carb. this tendancy, can be exstreamly hair pulling, in it's discovery. But rediable fixable w/ stock replace ment parts, or really trick dyno developed ones... spendy, but a killer "secret" upgrade, w/ proper needles.

aw, needles... In tuning my vf1000f, I got seriously obsessive, and would call jet kit tech #lines (several), and chat up the sick and twisted tuning people... It was like they never got to talk to people, really wanting to learn... so they could make there own, informed mistakes !!!!!!! I learned that they would sell you everything in a jet kit, piece by piece, cheep!!!!!, except... those exspensive dyno time developed needles. But being the obsessive tortured individual, I am, I even got one guy to tell me the taper dia.specs and transition lenghths, w/ calipers, in hand. Needles can be taperd, at dif. hieghts, to open up the main jet, lower/ higher, in the rpm's, and diameter changed to change mixture(rich/lean) are certain r's too. it's a trip to look at mikuni carb needle profiles... insane!!!!! and if that multitude, dosn't suit you... w/ proper therory, you can"chuck up" a needle, and sand your own tapers, at will!!!!!!truely insane !!!!!!!!!!! racey people, have secretly done this for decades...then, move that needle clip(or =/- a washer) and the transition timing and mixture... all changes !!!!!!!! no wonder the call carb tuning, a "black art"!!!!!! Clean and free,(you should have seen me before!!!) Ripp'n

P.S. 929, I never realized how gramaticaly challenged, aw heck, spelling, punctuation, and everystuff, i was, untill i went online, about a year ago... on the first forum, i blogged into... I was know as the "man ,of the 500 word sentance" !!!!!! One day a fellow blogger said, "hey Ripp'n, push that big enter button.. It makes paragraphs!!!!!!!!! W/ greatfull humility, I laughed my guts out !!!!!!! I am think'n that there is, a proper way to write... but it is so limiting, to my "fragmented" thought process!!!!!!!!!!. Your not the first to comment... "was that reply, in english?"!!!!!!!!! Ripp'nesse !!!!!!! You should hear me in person!!!!!!!!!! C-razy B-i polar R-ider !!!!!!!!!

 

Thanks again, Ripp'n
Your knowledge is good.
I might be getting someplace, as of last night. After the second "cleaning" of what looks like surgical metals already,....I might have it solved. I took out the pilot jet needles, and cleaned again, and after the initial startup, it seems pretty responsive and rpms more steady. I have the pilot screws set at the manual setting of 1 4/8 yes it says 4/8..... I will now have to try and calibrate those STUPID things. I cut slots in them so a screwdriver can be used instead of the dumb d shaped nub honda made on it, (what's the logic behind that..if I want to mess up the mixture,,etc..) but it is hard to keep the screw driver in the slot due to the casting around them being higher than the screw,..that part too now has a slot in it and the SD gets caught in that shoulder part easily when trying to adjust the PS in there.
I did make a discovery I wasn't aware of though,. when testing the response of the carbs with the throttle, the airbox has to be all installed and intact for it to work right. where did the old days of pulling off the aircleaner and "tuning" go to. That thing runs like crap with out the whole apperatus installed!! That is why when I rapped on the trhottle fast a couple of times in a row,, it would bog down.
Well this might be it.
Thanks again Ripp'n for the hint about the tubes though, I wish I would have slid those out,.....

 

That's it, I'm done. Runs smooth. I am used to V4's anyway, so I think this is is good as it gets with this little inline 4.
It must have been more undetectable varnish or gunk in the passageways I never got the first time. Thanks for the help.
Carb cozy,
scott