Battery not holding a charge....alternator?
#11
Ok, just wanted to make sure that the R/R getting hot was normal behavior for the OEM. Im so stumped as to why my batteries keep getting fried. My *new* battery is no good already =( i recently spliced some wiring from the braking unit to add an LED light for my liscence plate. Can simple things like this be the culprit?
#13
In general, starting the bike and letting it idle doesn't help the bike. The Alternator's on most bikes don't generate enough power to charge the bike while idling. So, starting and idling is putting a strain on the battery. Motorcycle batteries and car batteries are classified as starting batteries. They're designed to provide a large amount of current for a short period of time in order to start the vehicle. They only use a small amount of their capacity. Then by riding/driving, it gets charged back up. I don't know that I'd go so far as to say that repeated starting and running for short periods of time is going to "destroy" your battery, but it probably isn't helping it any.
LED lights don't draw that much power so I doubt that those are having much of an additional impact on your battery. On the F3's, when the key is off, there's nothing on the bike that's drawing any power. No memory to keep backed up or a clock to keep time like on newer FI bikes. Your bikes battery should be able to hold a charge for several weeks without starting the bike and still be fine. If it's going to be a few months, then you should consider a battery tender or something similar. Here in S FL we ride pretty much all year round so the bikes don't sit for long.
LED lights don't draw that much power so I doubt that those are having much of an additional impact on your battery. On the F3's, when the key is off, there's nothing on the bike that's drawing any power. No memory to keep backed up or a clock to keep time like on newer FI bikes. Your bikes battery should be able to hold a charge for several weeks without starting the bike and still be fine. If it's going to be a few months, then you should consider a battery tender or something similar. Here in S FL we ride pretty much all year round so the bikes don't sit for long.
#14
I just replaced the R/R with an '04 GSX-R's, the thing is huge! couldnt get over it. I just made my own plug harness, since where I had the stock R/R could not support this beast!
I'll post some pictures when I get them off my phone. Since im running a bit of a custom, i mounted the R/R under my seat, on a steel bracket I made. It's not attached to my seat, but it's under it. they say the R/R from a GSXR doesnt get too hot since it has a massive sync on it.
Anyhow, Installed, gooped with dielectric grease, tested, works! gonna have my battery load tested this week. hope I don't have a cell out!
the benefit to this is that when i make my final side faring that joins the YZF1 and the frame, i don't have to waste time on some air scoop!
#15
Hmm.....im starting to think that the stator is the culprit. When I had the bike connected to the jumpers she started and idled fine and as soon as I revved her up, the indicator lights for the side stand and neutral started dimming away. Also I took her for a short spin up the block while she was on and the bike started cutting out and turning off and on and off and on, but only when I put her in gear and drove. When she was in neutral I could rev all the way up to redline and nothing would cut out.
#16
however, that being said, the draw from the battery would be less while idling?
Have you done a test on all the phases of the stator? are they within range? (suppose I could read back and see if that was addressed).
Last edited by nvanvlymen; 06-10-2013 at 02:09 PM.
#17
No I haven't tested the stator, I just replaced my battery (thankfully under warranty) so I could start diagnosing things as MadHatter suggested. I guess the next step is to test the stator and the R/R. I have not so much experience with electrical components, but I guess there is always a time to learn!
#20
It's really easy to do, there are lots of resources out there. all you need is a good multimeter and some time. a quick test took me 20 minutes, and it at least told me there was no ground shorts, and the things that should have continuity did. If you don't have a multimeter, i would invest in one.