Battery not holding a charge....alternator?
 

Ok, so I ride my bike for my everyday commute and upon leaving for work, my starter will barely crank and I have to push start my f3 to get it running. After push starting it, the bike rides home fine (although I do notice that every time I hit my brakes, the dash lights dim). I get her home and turn the key to off. And then try to fire her back up. She starts again only because the bike is hot but still had a weak starter sound. I let the bike get cold, and try again, and the starter is barely churning again, but this time the engine wasn't warm, so nothing happened. I suspect that it is the alternator or my battery just sucks (wallmart brand). Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated, I have it on the battery tender as of now.

Here's my standard write-up for electrical issues...

If the battery is more than about 4-5 years old, it is the most likely cause.
You can pull it and take to a parts house, most do a free load test/diagnostic.

To diagnose electrical issues, you should always start with a sound battery.
So don't skip this step. After you assure that, you can move on.

Next check the entire wiring harness, especially on an older bike.

Methodically, go through the harness...inspecting/uncoupling each connector.
Hose it with a spray contact-cleaner, fill the female with di-electric grease
and then, re-connect. As you go along, watch for burnt/bare/frayed/etc.
damage to the wiring. Check/clean the terminals and the entire top of the battery.

After you've assured the health of the harness, THEN you're ready to diagnose any further issues.
Otherwise, some little jiggle could be masquerading as a component failure.

Take a close look at the r/r (regulator/rectifier), this is a traditional failure point on Hondas. It's on the right, under the side cover. It looks like this...

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.n...44622295_n.jpg

It's located here, that big finned monster is my replacement for the previous photo.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.n...98265429_n.jpg



Here are some links to get the big picture and how to diagnose the rest of the system.

http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/pdfs/...P-PMG-&-RR.pdf

Charging System Diagnostics - Rectifier/Regulator Upgrade - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums

Technical Resources - Resources for Electrical Systems on Motorcycles and ATVs - ElectroSport

In the event of a r/r replacement scenario, if you need to verify cross-compatibility.
Here's a resource posted by one of the other hip dudes on the site...

According to a local parts dealer's website all of these bikes use the same r/r:
Honda CBR 600 F2 Super Sport ( PC25 ) ´1991-94.
Honda CBR 600 F3 Super Sport ( PC25 ) ´1995-98.
Honda CBR 600 F4 ( PC35 ) ´1999-00.
Honda CB 600 F Hornet ( PC36 ) ´2004-07.
Honda VFR 750F ( PC36 ) ´1990-93.
Honda VFR 750 ( RC36-24 ) ´1994-97.
Honda VT 750C Shadow ACE ( RC44 ) ´1998-99.
Honda VT 750 CD Shadow ACE Deluxe ( RC44 ) ´1998-04.
Honda VT 750 C Shadow Aero ( RC50 ) ´2004-08.
Honda PC 800 Pacific Coast ( RC34 ) ´1989-98.
Honda CBR 900RR Fireblade ( SC28 ) ´1993-95.
Honda CBR 900RR Fireblade ( SC33 ) ´1996-97.
Honda CBR 900RR Fireblade ( SC33 ) ´1998-99.
Honda VTR 1000F Superhawk ( SC36 ) ´1998-05.
Honda CBR 1100XX Blackbird ( SC35 ) ´1997-98.

A lot of folks have had good luck with 750-1000 GSXR's,
as replacement part for the r/r, also.

Hope this helps, Ern

im going through the same issue as it stands right now.

the battery was fine last night, was able to fire the engine up. This morning, the battery was was 2.5 vdc. In most cases, this is an indicator that something in the system is prematurly draining the battery, but it's also a strong indicator that the rectifier is done.

I just did a continuity, grounding and ohm test on the wiring harness at the point of rectifier. everything checks out. The next step is to check the health of the rectifier itself. I think there was a link above that goes over that.

The next thing im goign to do once the batter is juiced up, is do a AC test on the stator, this will tell me the health of it. Of course that's not a guarantee its still not at fault.

before you do any purchases, read, read and read some more. Get a good multimeter and test everything.

It sucks, but it's better than a 200+ towing fee.

Thank you both for the detailed reply!! Time to head to the hardware store and start checking things off the list :/ Seems like electrical issues are a common problem on both the F2 and F3. My F2 as well had this same problem, and now my F3 fell victim....

I'm doin it on the 954 now, replaced the rec/reg last month and waiting for the stator now as it got fried when the rec/reg died. Wait for the phone call for the stator now, fingers crossed.

just a question...under normal running conditions, how hot does the R/R get?

If it's the OEM one that came on the bike, I would not put my hand's on it after the bike has been running for a short period of time. It get's really hot. The big GSX/R ones only get warm to the touch.

I was going through this recently as well. Took my battery in to be tested at the auto parts store and had a bad cell. New battery; problem solved.

Ok, just wanted to make sure that the R/R getting hot was normal behavior for the OEM. Im so stumped as to why my batteries keep getting fried. My *new* battery is no good already =( i recently spliced some wiring from the braking unit to add an LED light for my liscence plate. Can simple things like this be the culprit?

btw nvanvlymen, I must say, that bike of yours......CAN I HAVE IT PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE :P