Another neglected F3, not wanting to turn over.
As per usual, the knowledge and advice is always much appreciated. This is where I have gotten thus far not in any particular order ;
-Cleaned the bowls and drained all the old gas from the carbs and fuel lines.
-Replaced the fuel filter.
-Removed and cleaned the petcock of all debris with carb cleaner.
- Drained all the old gas out of the tank. Replaced with fresh gas.
-Busted 2 knuckles open.
-Got gas in those cuts.
-Gave it one quick 2 second shot of trying to start it, it then backfired and probably scared 90% of my neighbors.
Now I'm going to call it a night until tomorrow morning/night. I'd really love to get her fired up running nice and strong.
-Cleaned the bowls and drained all the old gas from the carbs and fuel lines.
-Replaced the fuel filter.
-Removed and cleaned the petcock of all debris with carb cleaner.
- Drained all the old gas out of the tank. Replaced with fresh gas.
-Busted 2 knuckles open.
-Got gas in those cuts.
-Gave it one quick 2 second shot of trying to start it, it then backfired and probably scared 90% of my neighbors.
Now I'm going to call it a night until tomorrow morning/night. I'd really love to get her fired up running nice and strong.
Exhaust.
That would mean one of 2 things. Either your timing is off, or there was just a bit too much "fuel" in the cylinder when it fired. My money is on the latter, which just means you maybe sprayed a bit too much in the plug holes. Other than making you jump 10 ft and alarming your neighbors, it's no big whoop.
Going back to the 3 things it takes to make fire, It really sounds like for some reason fuel is not getting through your carbs. How deep did you dig into them? Did you removed each of the jets and inspect them? Are all the passage ways perfectly clear? Right now, your pilot screws are the most suspect as they are the primary ones utilized when you are attempting to start it. The fuel enrichment circuit, (choke) is the other potential culprit.
Going back to the 3 things it takes to make fire, It really sounds like for some reason fuel is not getting through your carbs. How deep did you dig into them? Did you removed each of the jets and inspect them? Are all the passage ways perfectly clear? Right now, your pilot screws are the most suspect as they are the primary ones utilized when you are attempting to start it. The fuel enrichment circuit, (choke) is the other potential culprit.
I think its carbs too. Although, the plugs may need to be replaced. They don't like a ton of fuel and starter fluid. I've fouled them out trying to get a motor running again. Have you pulled them to see what they look like?
EDIT: oh, and never underestimate the healing powers of gas in open cuts on your hands!
EDIT: oh, and never underestimate the healing powers of gas in open cuts on your hands!
Last edited by Conrice; Mar 14, 2015 at 06:09 PM.
I think its carbs too. Although, the plugs may need to be replaced. They don't like a ton of fuel and starter fluid. I've fouled them out trying to get a motor running again. Have you pulled them to see what they look like?
EDIT: oh, and never underestimate the healing powers of gas in open cuts on your hands!
EDIT: oh, and never underestimate the healing powers of gas in open cuts on your hands!
I did however see them a few months back at the shop and the guy was astonished they were so clean two years+ after he had put them in.
In the scenario that it's a timing issue, how would that be diagnosed/fixed and what would cause that?
Also, how would I go about assessing whether or not gas is getting to my carbs. There is fuel in the lines everytime I have disconnected them, should I just give draining the bowls a shot? Would that indicate fuel delivery?
On our bikes, you really can't do much with the timing. I only brought it up as I was talking about the theoretical. Technically you can do just a little bit, but not much. Under most circumstances, you have to try and mess it up for it to need attention.
Concerning your last question about the carbs, I don't think the issue is getting fuel "to" the carbs, rather I believe the issue is getting fuel "through" the carbs. You see it in the lines and in the float bowls. My belief is this that the pilot circuit is probably clogged. The passage ways for that portion of the carb is super tiny and takes more than you can do by eyeballing it. It takes carb cleaner and compressed air. Especially since you aren't separating the rail, there's no other adequate way that I know of.
Concerning your last question about the carbs, I don't think the issue is getting fuel "to" the carbs, rather I believe the issue is getting fuel "through" the carbs. You see it in the lines and in the float bowls. My belief is this that the pilot circuit is probably clogged. The passage ways for that portion of the carb is super tiny and takes more than you can do by eyeballing it. It takes carb cleaner and compressed air. Especially since you aren't separating the rail, there's no other adequate way that I know of.
Oh yea, to pull the plugs does not require any special Honda tools. I actually have the official factory Honda spark plug wrench and have never taken it out of the package. I just use a plug socket, (important), and 2 different lengths of extensions and a ratchet.
The reason a plug socket is important is it will have a rubber boot in the bottom of the socket that holds the plug after its free from the threads. On our bikes, the socket well is so deep that without it, you might learn some new words attempting to retrieve the plugs.
The reason a plug socket is important is it will have a rubber boot in the bottom of the socket that holds the plug after its free from the threads. On our bikes, the socket well is so deep that without it, you might learn some new words attempting to retrieve the plugs.
Oh yea, to pull the plugs does not require any special Honda tools. I actually have the official factory Honda spark plug wrench and have never taken it out of the package. I just use a plug socket, (important), and 2 different lengths of extensions and a ratchet.
The reason a plug socket is important is it will have a rubber boot in the bottom of the socket that holds the plug after its free from the threads. On our bikes, the socket well is so deep that without it, you might learn some new words attempting to retrieve the plugs.
The reason a plug socket is important is it will have a rubber boot in the bottom of the socket that holds the plug after its free from the threads. On our bikes, the socket well is so deep that without it, you might learn some new words attempting to retrieve the plugs.
Just to be safe I'm ordering a set of coils and wires from eBay for 40$ going to replace them to rule that out. One of the boots doesn't want to fully click and seat on the plug, maybe that had something to do with it. If that doesn't help, she's going to the shop.


