Those two actions should be actual steps in section 5 of the factory manual.

 

No sir I do not.

I know it all comes with the territory,i have just been there so many times in the past and I just want to get this bike up and running steady so that I can pass her along to someone else without pawning off a burden to someone. I tried to drain the carbs without disassembly but I can only get the one screw on the left side. It seems like they are too close together to get to the other screws down the line.

 

are you trying to loosen the drain screws on the bowls or the bowls themselves? the drain screws should be easy to get to, comparritivly speaking.

 

I was trying to drain all of the old gas I could get out. But. I bit the bullet and now have the carbs somewhat off and I'm getting myself prepared for trying to do a "light" cleaning. I want to avoid separating them at all cost so that I won't have to have them synced.

 

Yea, you should be able to get by without having to break them apart, especially since the bike hasn't been sitting around for eons.

 

Now I'm dumbfounded. They weren't all that dirty at all. Jets aren't clogged, and I'm getting spark. So. Where to go from here is beyond me.

 

Here's what I would suggest. Keeping in mind there are only 3 elements to producing fire; O2, spark and fuel, I would pull all 4 plugs, then squirt a small bit of start fluid, carb cleaner, ether or the like into the plug holes. Then quickly before it evaporates, get it all back together and try and start it and see what happens. It should fire. In this scenario, if it does attempt to fire, you know that your fuel system is at fault somehow. I say this because out of the above mentioned elements, O2 and spark are as they normally would be. The fuel would be the only anomaly.

 

Gotya, seems like that could be a bit sketchy? Maybe it's just me.. Fire hazard maybe? I have noticed after putting the carbs back in I've got a few attempts that were close to firing up. Side note; upon further inspection into the tank, it looks like there may be a small amount of surface rust near the pet **** area. And the fuel is now "tinged" slightly yellowish orange... Assuming I'm going to have to drain all of it from every orifice, and put a rust removal product in there? I'm hoping that's the only thing holding this bike back from starting.. Possible?

 

What's the inside of the tank look like? I've had rust in my tanks before and I've done the liner kits. They work fantastic, but it takes a whole day to do.

Also, if you can clean the tarnish of the jets, it'll be fine so long as it doesn't sit.

But that's sort of what I was alluding to earlier. Starter fluid (ether) is good for one thing - diagnosing where the problem is. If the engine doesn't hit or fire on ether, its ignition. If it does hit (even if it doesn't roar to life and run for for more than a minute or so), its fuel related. If it did pop, like you said it did, its most likely a carb issue. Rust in the tank can compound the issue when it comes to clogged jets and stuck needle valves...

You won't want to add a rust removal product unless you're lining the tank because it would drag those rust particles back into the carbs continuously. Just try draining plus fresh gas.

If I lived on that coast, I'd come and get it running for you, and then go watch Daytona....

 

Nope, not sketch at all. As I reread what I wrote, I see maybe where it may look potentially dangerous. After you spray the fluid into the spark plug holes, you reinstall the plugs and wires. Basically what you are doing is bypassing the carbs all together.
The only way that it can be even somewhat dangerous is if your intake or exhaust valves are out of whack. Then you might get a backfire either through the carbs or the exhaust. Even at that, it's not even a worrisome thing.
You may be on to something with your off color fuel. You can drain your fuel and remove the petcock to remove any matter from the petcock filter. It may not be a bad idea to replace your fuel filter also.