This was all done in neutral. Problem concerned the 1200 - 3K rpm range. After 3K rpms it ALWAYS ran fine. Ok so I played around with the carbs' pilot screw. Started out with 1 3/4 turn out, bike idles at 1200 and once I give it gas it stalls. Tried 2 1/2 turns, same ****. 3 1/2 turns same ****. I decided to take off the airbox and filter and see how it runs. Bike turned on and idled for a few secs and stalled. I thought about it and came to the conclusion that the carbs had too much air. So i restricted the air flow by covering the air streams with a t-shirt. The bike idled fine and when I hit the acceleration it began to accelerate (slow) to 3K rpms then picked up fine. However, the exciting thing is it ran ****ty, but ran between 1200 to 3000. Is there something I missing out that adjusts air flow, or is the pilot screw the only thing that can adjust fuel/air mixture. Also anybody have an idea of how exactly the diaphragm on the carb is operated, what controls its pushing in and out to restrict or allow air flow?

Also I am doing all this by ear, I dont have the carb wrench and I dont have vacuum tubes, I CAN take it to a shop, but I want to learn this myself, so please dont post response like take it to a shop or get vacuum tubes, because I know this can be done without either or, like it was back in the day. Don't mean to sound like a jack *** but I just wanna learn something and cant learn much from responses like that.

-Jake

 

1st of all you can't fix anything by ear, you need fingers and wrenches, besides it hurts your ear lobes hahahahahaha!!!!!!!

If you want to set your carbs' up you have no option sorry to say, you need a manometer or some vacuum gauges to set the carbs up and have em' all synced up together, you wont do it be feel or by ear fact,
Also I would just check that non of the diaphrams are split or leaking, that can cause the enging to sputter and stall,