'95 F3, Coolant in oil, NO oil in coolant
#12
10-05-2018, 09:33 PM
Car 600 f3
Update: fixed it. Absolutely the dumbest, smallest thing that cost me way too much time and money.
Turns out the two sealing plugs in the head had backed out so far that coolant was weeping right past the threads. Torqued them down and the system has been holding steady pressure for ten minutes.
Turns out the two sealing plugs in the head had backed out so far that coolant was weeping right past the threads. Torqued them down and the system has been holding steady pressure for ten minutes.
#13
10-05-2018, 09:34 PM
#14
10-06-2018, 08:46 PM
When casting something as complex as an engine head with a metal that cools as fast as aluminum, the 'pour' must happen quickly. Experimentation with early revision parts may show the engineers sections of the casting that can form air pockets that are resistant to the flow of the molten metal. In such cases, a 'port' is usually introduced to the casting that allows for the quick escape of trapped air. Such a spot in the casting may require machining and plugging before the part is ready for service.
#15
06-24-2019, 12:17 AM
I've tried almost everything, and it hasn't worked so far so any suggestions are welcome.
The oil is very milky and clearly mixing with coolant.
I replaced the head gasket with an OEM replacement and flushed the oil 2 times with no change. I did everything according to the manual, using a torque wrench, and ensuring the mating surfaces were clean.
I did a full "rebuild" of the oil cooler, which included all new orings and even the little metal collars. I ran the bike, then parked it for a few weeks; when I came back, I drained the oil cold, and got a small stream of coolant before milky oil started draining. Flushed the oil 3 times, allowing the bike to warm up thoroughly and giving it some revs to cycle the oil, and it still comes out as a very light brown that's far too thin.
The weep hole on my water pump indicating a bad seal is completely bone dry. I removed the pump and it looks fine. I cannot find a new replacement, but there are some used ones on eBay. I'm hesitant to buy them because who's to say the same problem doesn't affect those?
The bike runs great aside from some mild rattling that I'm confident is just the CCT. The exhaust doesn't blow smoke. There are no unusual leaks anywhere. I have not replaced the oil filter because I didn't want to waste a new one while flushing the oil. I doubt that the small amount of contaminated oil in there could contaminate 3.4 liters of fresh stuff 5 times over.
The coolant is very clean with no contamination visible. The rad cap DOES have a little "sludge" stuff on it, but it seems more like dirt/grime from the bike's age rather than oil. I drained the coolant tonight to remove the water pump, and it looked very clear and clean.
I fear the worst, that the head is cracked or warped, seeping coolant into the oil, but I don't understand how it wouldn't go both ways even a little bit. I understand the concept of one pressure being higher than the other, but at low temperatures, wouldn't oil run at a higher pressure than the coolant, pushing oil into the coolant instead? I guess my next course of action is to buy another water pump, and getting another used one is a gamble. If anyone knows any better solution or where to get a new pump, please let me know.
The oil is very milky and clearly mixing with coolant.
I replaced the head gasket with an OEM replacement and flushed the oil 2 times with no change. I did everything according to the manual, using a torque wrench, and ensuring the mating surfaces were clean.
I did a full "rebuild" of the oil cooler, which included all new orings and even the little metal collars. I ran the bike, then parked it for a few weeks; when I came back, I drained the oil cold, and got a small stream of coolant before milky oil started draining. Flushed the oil 3 times, allowing the bike to warm up thoroughly and giving it some revs to cycle the oil, and it still comes out as a very light brown that's far too thin.
The weep hole on my water pump indicating a bad seal is completely bone dry. I removed the pump and it looks fine. I cannot find a new replacement, but there are some used ones on eBay. I'm hesitant to buy them because who's to say the same problem doesn't affect those?
The bike runs great aside from some mild rattling that I'm confident is just the CCT. The exhaust doesn't blow smoke. There are no unusual leaks anywhere. I have not replaced the oil filter because I didn't want to waste a new one while flushing the oil. I doubt that the small amount of contaminated oil in there could contaminate 3.4 liters of fresh stuff 5 times over.
The coolant is very clean with no contamination visible. The rad cap DOES have a little "sludge" stuff on it, but it seems more like dirt/grime from the bike's age rather than oil. I drained the coolant tonight to remove the water pump, and it looked very clear and clean.
I fear the worst, that the head is cracked or warped, seeping coolant into the oil, but I don't understand how it wouldn't go both ways even a little bit. I understand the concept of one pressure being higher than the other, but at low temperatures, wouldn't oil run at a higher pressure than the coolant, pushing oil into the coolant instead? I guess my next course of action is to buy another water pump, and getting another used one is a gamble. If anyone knows any better solution or where to get a new pump, please let me know.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
swole600f3
CBR 600F3
9
01-03-2017 08:16 PM