Project bike
#31
i fixed the oil cooler leak,now onto another issue. i put a yoshimura exhaust on it and i noticed the exhaust assembly started smoking? i took the muffler off and noticed the smoking almost stopped but it still smokes a little off the bottom of the assembly and up by the radiator...this project is racking my nerves now! why would the exhaust do this,oh and the bike is not overheating cuz the temp is normal.
#33
If you're talking about the "by the radiator" as in the header pipes, then maybe you just got some chemicals on the headers?
When I degrease things, sometimes I fail to get it all cleaned off, then it slowly burns off of the pipes... if this doesn't stop, then maybe there is another issue... are you positive it's smoke, and not steam, from a coolant leak?
Also, did you get a full system, or just a new slip-on?
Anyway, chances are, with the work you did up front with the oil cooler, that you just got oil and what not on the exhaust or other engine parts, and it's just burning off as the bike gets to temp.
When I degrease things, sometimes I fail to get it all cleaned off, then it slowly burns off of the pipes... if this doesn't stop, then maybe there is another issue... are you positive it's smoke, and not steam, from a coolant leak?
Also, did you get a full system, or just a new slip-on?
Anyway, chances are, with the work you did up front with the oil cooler, that you just got oil and what not on the exhaust or other engine parts, and it's just burning off as the bike gets to temp.
#34
#35
Well, you did just work on the oil cooler, so the next logical thought, is that something is not sealed right, and coolant is leaking onto the headers.
You'll need to strip the fairings, so you can see well, and run the bike from cold, bobbing about with a flashlight until you see the origin of the leak... it's gotta be coming from somewhere, and it just makes sense to suspect the part you just worked on.
Out of curiosity, did you use a torque wrench, set for the specified value, for bolting the cooler on, or did you just tighten them?
You'll need to strip the fairings, so you can see well, and run the bike from cold, bobbing about with a flashlight until you see the origin of the leak... it's gotta be coming from somewhere, and it just makes sense to suspect the part you just worked on.
Out of curiosity, did you use a torque wrench, set for the specified value, for bolting the cooler on, or did you just tighten them?
#36
#37
In post #29 in this thread, I mentioned that you would need to replace that seal - part 36 in this fiche: CRANKCASE SET , which sounds like the one you're saying you didn't replace.
If it is leaking from somewhere else, you've just gonna have to keep looking 'til you find it, but like I said before, it sure seems logical that your issue is with the oil cooler, and that the bike didn't just conicedentally spring a leak elsewere!
You really should replace that seal, but also bear in mind that you're bolting an aluminum part to an aluminum block - tightening the bolts evenly and at the proper torque value is very important, as doing it incorrectly can result in warped/uneven mountings, and can leave you with leaks.
If you don't have a torque wrench, buy one or rent one... the Craftsman signal beam torque wrench I have, which is rated for accuracy from 5 to 80 ft. lb., was right at about $100.
DO NOT buy or borrow a Harbor Freight torque wrench, you may as well just put the bolts on with an impact wrench!
Bolts of this size/pitch should be torqued to about 9 ft. lb. - what I do with bolts like this, is ease them in, tightening first to 5, then 7, then to 9... it may seem overly cautious, but it's served me well for decades! This really applies well, when you've got a lot more fasteners to tighten evenly, like with a cylinder head or case cover, which also requires a proper tightening sequence, but it does apply a little here as well.
If it is leaking from somewhere else, you've just gonna have to keep looking 'til you find it, but like I said before, it sure seems logical that your issue is with the oil cooler, and that the bike didn't just conicedentally spring a leak elsewere!
You really should replace that seal, but also bear in mind that you're bolting an aluminum part to an aluminum block - tightening the bolts evenly and at the proper torque value is very important, as doing it incorrectly can result in warped/uneven mountings, and can leave you with leaks.
If you don't have a torque wrench, buy one or rent one... the Craftsman signal beam torque wrench I have, which is rated for accuracy from 5 to 80 ft. lb., was right at about $100.
DO NOT buy or borrow a Harbor Freight torque wrench, you may as well just put the bolts on with an impact wrench!
Bolts of this size/pitch should be torqued to about 9 ft. lb. - what I do with bolts like this, is ease them in, tightening first to 5, then 7, then to 9... it may seem overly cautious, but it's served me well for decades! This really applies well, when you've got a lot more fasteners to tighten evenly, like with a cylinder head or case cover, which also requires a proper tightening sequence, but it does apply a little here as well.
#38
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