CBR 600F2 1991 - 1994 CBR 600F2

Muffler change

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  #1  
Old 06-18-2021, 11:54 AM
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Default Muffler change

My 93 F2 has a Vance&Hines exhaust system and even with only one working ear, it's LOUD. I have repacked it and same old same old noise, then I bought a slip-on with the "DB killer" and still loud. I looked at the stock muffler , they are black/ugly and expensive, like $100+. Then I saw a 2004, it's chrome and looks good and cheaper ($60) so I'm waiting for it to arrive. The pipe shape looks right, but the V&H pipes have those springs and neither the 94 or 04 have the little doie maflicker things for the springs. So my question should I take the newer pipe and get those thingy mabobbers welded on, or is there a type of muffler clamp that will work?
 
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Old 06-18-2021, 01:55 PM
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The 04 exhaust should come complete with the 'intermediate' pipe as a single piece, this will then mount at the joint at the rear of the engine with the existing clamp.
You should not then need the 'doie mafkickers!'
One thing that I cannot remember is if the diameter of the pipe is the same.
 
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Old 06-29-2021, 04:20 PM
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Default How to get the mid-pipe off

I got he new Honda HEAVY muffler and yipee looks easy peasy, Oh not so quick grasshopper, Oh the Vance&Hines muffler was a snap and getting all the springs off just require twisting this old body around and off they came. But the mid-pipe has been on this beasty for well over 20 years and it ain't giving up it's place without a fight. I has sprayed it with a lubricating oil and still it is holding tight. Anyone have a suggestion, or is this natures way of saying, once a header system is united , let no man separate them
 
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Old 06-30-2021, 06:36 AM
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That did make me laugh!
It would be a real shame to have to replace the headers as well if you cannot get the intermediate pipe off esp if they are in good nick and of course the corresponding risk of breaking the head studs.
You may just have to resort to progressively larger 'persuaders' (hammers) along with some locally applied heat to try to break the rust seal that is keeping them together
 
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Old 07-01-2021, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Al1040
That did make me laugh!
It would be a real shame to have to replace the headers as well if you cannot get the intermediate pipe off esp if they are in good nick and of course the corresponding risk of breaking the head studs.
You may just have to resort to progressively larger 'persuaders' (hammers) along with some locally applied heat to try to break the rust seal that is keeping them together
If he's got the 4 into1 V&H headers as well - those are near unobtanium these days. V&H quit making that whole exhaust system many moons ago. I have that full setup on mine, and I've packed my muffler about halfway full. Loud, but not too loud to me with the helmet on. Like folks in traffic around me to have trouble talking on their cell phone.
 
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Old 07-02-2021, 03:56 PM
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Default Kinda finished

Originally Posted by srp204
My 93 F2 has a Vance&Hines exhaust system and even with only one working ear, it's LOUD. I have repacked it and same old same old noise, then I bought a slip-on with the "DB killer" and still loud. I looked at the stock muffler , they are black/ugly and expensive, like $100+. Then I saw a 2004, it's chrome and looks good and cheaper ($60) so I'm waiting for it to arrive. The pipe shape looks right, but the V&H pipes have those springs and neither the 94 or 04 have the little doie maflicker things for the springs

. So my question should I take the newer pipe and get those thingy mabobbers welded on, or is there a type of muffler clamp that will work?
Well I could not get the mid pipe off without risking the whole system, so I cut the Honda muffler and bought an adapter. The V&H pipe was 51mm and the Honda was 56mm. Now I am going to get a spring tab welded on to secure it. The volume is a lot lower and the sound has changed. It used to sound like my old RZ350LC, that high pitched ring ding kinda noise. It kinda sounds like a 900 with the low growl. BTW I need to replace the camchainc adjuster ,now that I can hear it
 
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Old 07-02-2021, 06:09 PM
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Go with the APE manual tensioner, the OEM design will eventually fail again anyway.
 
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