f2 wont start, keeps fouling plugs
I had a similar issue with my F3, I kept cleaning the plugs with a wire brush, I disconnected the fuel tank, and plugged each plug into the wire and let it touch the engine, then cranked the bike, look for a bright blue spark, mine wouldn't spark well until i sand blasted them... also make sure your coils are hooked up right, that ended up being my real problem, PO had it backwards, sending a weak spark.... the color wire should go to the green terminal....
I think you guys were right about needing new plugs. I cleaned mine again and checked them individually for spark, and there was nearly none on any of them. They were probably bad from the beginning, even when cleaned.
I bought a new set of plugs today, and cleaned the carbs out better since I had them off the bike anyways. I'm going to put it all together tonight, check all the wire routing, and give it another try.
I bought a new set of plugs today, and cleaned the carbs out better since I had them off the bike anyways. I'm going to put it all together tonight, check all the wire routing, and give it another try.
Well, I put the new plugs in and put the carbs back on. I poured gas into the carbs and sure enough it started up right away revved high and then died. I set the tank on, turned the gas on and tried getting it to start that way. It wont start with the tank only. every time i poured gas into the carbs it fired right up then died right away. (probably about 5 times)
Ok, that's progress. Spark issue is fixed, now its either fuel or air. I'd be careful about trying to overcrank her now. You don't want to fugger the new plugs.
When I jetted my bike, the Dynojet instructions gave a sorta default setting for the pilot screw. Said to turn it till it lightly seats then back it out 1 1/2 turns. That's prolly far from tuned but it should give you a baseline that'll let the bike start & run so long as everything else is ok.
Given you were previously wet fouling the plugs, I'd say fuel from the tank is getting through the carbs to the plugs. So if setting the pilot screw like that doesn't get her to start, you might have an air issue. If you have an air compressor, I'd take the floats & diaphragms out (and anything else that could be damaged) and blowing out the carbs.
Of course all this depends on just how thorough you were with your carb cleaning
(I say that cause I wasn't very thorough until the 3rd time)
When I jetted my bike, the Dynojet instructions gave a sorta default setting for the pilot screw. Said to turn it till it lightly seats then back it out 1 1/2 turns. That's prolly far from tuned but it should give you a baseline that'll let the bike start & run so long as everything else is ok.
Given you were previously wet fouling the plugs, I'd say fuel from the tank is getting through the carbs to the plugs. So if setting the pilot screw like that doesn't get her to start, you might have an air issue. If you have an air compressor, I'd take the floats & diaphragms out (and anything else that could be damaged) and blowing out the carbs.
Of course all this depends on just how thorough you were with your carb cleaning
(I say that cause I wasn't very thorough until the 3rd time)
also i would make sure your petcock isnt clogged and that you havent pinched any of the vent tubes on the tank. hook the vacuum line up to the petcock and test for good flow. i had a pinhole in mine causing a leak and not enough fuel getting into the carbs.
also make sure the little vacumme line that goes from carb to the fuel pet-**** is intact and hooked up, as this line allows vacumm to open the fuel supply , without it ...no fuel..peeece
Well, I poured some gas in the carbs, put the tank on and checked to make sure all the lines were good and it started right up and stayed running. I revved it up for a lil while and then let it idle. There was a lot of smoke and some flames when I revved it real high, but now it blows a lot less smoke and doesn't shoot any flames.
Went for a test ride though, and realized that I really need to tune it. Is this something I can do by myself with the proper tools? When I rode it the bike would have a really hard time taking off and then would bog until you gained speed then it would catch on but didn't have any power.
Went for a test ride though, and realized that I really need to tune it. Is this something I can do by myself with the proper tools? When I rode it the bike would have a really hard time taking off and then would bog until you gained speed then it would catch on but didn't have any power.
yes it def needs a tune. you can make your own sync tool but i would just spend alittle money and get a motion pro off ebay for $90. its pretty easy to do and will make your bike run alot better. glad you got it straightened out.
I haven't decided yet what i will do to tune it yet, partially because I have another set of carbs. I have a set of f3 carbs; i took the sensor off and put them on this f2 motor to see if it would run better. It does run better I can actually ride it because it doesn't completely die when trying to go from a stop.
But, when I rev the motor the rpms hang for a while before coming down to ide, like a vacuum leak or something. Could this be caused from that line that goes to the petcock, or because i didn't take my time putting everything together and the airbox isn't on good enough(its probably not). I'm not sure what else would cause the rpms to hang
But, when I rev the motor the rpms hang for a while before coming down to ide, like a vacuum leak or something. Could this be caused from that line that goes to the petcock, or because i didn't take my time putting everything together and the airbox isn't on good enough(its probably not). I'm not sure what else would cause the rpms to hang


