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Hello friends, recently picked myself up a 92 600 F2. Engine runs great but its got some charging issues. For one, the cheap aftermarket RR that the previous owner replaced is absolutely smoked. The plastic connector on it is straight up melted/fused (the top yellow stator wire and the green one next to it melted specifically.) I already plan on replacing that with one from Rick's and already grabbed a new "AHL" connector w/ wires (gonna splice it in). I'm a bit weary on the connector since it's some random brand but the construction on it seems solid enough. In any case, I removed the old stator cover since I figured it must've went bad and sent some wild voltages to the RR (hence the melting) and found that the sheath that the idle gear shaft slides into had sheared clean off and was in multiple pieces, just floating around in there. Coincidentally, there was a **** ton of some type of glue on the other side of the stator, so someone definitely tried to "fix it" prior. The previous owner also RTV'd the gasket for this thing, I've already got a brand new stator cover. I was going to go ahead and just buy a new stator as well but I'm having an absolute nightmare of a time trying to source a decent quality one. I've seen pretty negative things about Caltric and Rick's (the stator specifically, everyone says Rick's RR's are great). At this point, I'm considering just throwing the old stator in the new cover with an OEM gasket but I reaaaally don't want to risk destroying a brand new RR if the stator is what caused the RR to melt. I've attached some pictures of the old stator, not sure if it helps but I figured I might as well. Specifically, the wires on it look great, I've seen videos where those end up getting chewed through. Oh, and if you're wondering why the end of the stator doesn't have a connector, it's because someone did a connector delete and wired the stator to the RR directly using drywall style cone connectors Any tips are greatly appreciated!
edit: I forgot there's also Ricky stators, they seem alright?
Unless you are Superman and can see electrons moving inside wires, there's absolutely zero way any human can look at wires and determine its ability to conduct electricity. Luckily we have instruments that can. Do standard resistance and ground measurements stator to make sure it's still good.
Unless you are Superman and can see electrons moving inside wires, there's absolutely zero way any human can look at wires and determine its ability to conduct electricity. Luckily we have instruments that can. Do standard resistance and ground measurements stator to make sure it's still good.
You're right, I actually ended up busting out the multimeter and should've posted my findings lol. I tested for continuity, that checked out. Tested for shorts, none. The part that I'm not super sure about is the resistance. Last night, when testing by wrapping the exposed wires around my my multimeter's probes, I was getting .1 pretty consistently, sometimes it would drop to 0 though. However, after snipping those frayed ends and exposing some fresh wire from the jacket, doing the same thing results in a very consistent .2 reading. If I moved the probe a bit the numbers would jump but then settle back at .2 where it stayed. .2 does seem to be in the acceptable range and it also happens to match exactly what my Caltric stator measures at (I bought it before I read all the reviews, planning on returning lol.) I'm pretty new to measuring with multimeter but it seems like my old stator might still be good?
Awesome troubleshooting! No shorts and impedance within range! Stator's good!
Honda specified low-specs for connector between stator & RR. Unsealed connectors with uncoated terminals will corrode over time and burn up due from increased resistance and heat. Shunt-circuit RR drives stator at 100% fulltime and large amount of current burns any corroded connector. People have tried replacing them with new connectors, but those too, fail in short time-frame:
Only solution that has worked is cutting off connectors and wiring straight-through with proper western-union/linesman knot, soldering and adhesive heat-shrink wrap. It's done this way in pro-motorsports (F1/MotoGP), military and aerospace applications for performance, reliability and durability. Don't pre-tin larger stranded wires, too difficult to tie into knot.
Awesome troubleshooting! No shorts and impedance within range! Stator's good!
Honda specified low-specs for connector between stator & RR. Unsealed connectors with uncoated terminals will corrode over time and burn up due from increased resistance and heat. Shunt-circuit RR drives stator at 100% fulltime and large amount of current burns any corroded connector. People have tried replacing them with new connectors, but those too, fail in short time-frame:
Only solution that has worked is cutting off connectors and wiring straight-through with proper western-union/linesman knot, soldering and adhesive heat-shrink wrap. It's done this way in pro-motorsports (F1/MotoGP), military and aerospace applications for performance, reliability and durability. Don't pre-tin larger stranded wires, too difficult to tie into knot.
BRO! Thank you so much for this. This is exactly what I was planning to do but didn't have a clear idea on how. I already have shrink tubing and a soldering iron (and a little exp with it), but didn't know about the proper knotting or the methodology for pulling this off. Also really appreciate the technical info, I'm very much still learning but have a curious and analytical mind, I'm trying to gain as much working knowledge as I can with this project.