CBR 600F2 1991 - 1994 CBR 600F2

93 600 F2 Chain ?

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Old 04-10-2012, 10:44 AM
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Default 93 600 F2 Chain ?

my chain is definately shot keeps getting loose. Are there any chains that are better than others?or are they basically the same? Another ? is someone was tellin me when i do the chain to change the back sprocket and give it more teeth so it'll go quicker faster my ? is it really worth it to change the sprocket and what is a good size to change it to so i wont top out at 90?
 
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Old 04-10-2012, 10:55 AM
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stick with a D.I.D or RK chain. you will find different lines of o ring chains that vary in strength and price, so find your balance between them. just choose the right size (ie 520,525, 530) to match the sprockets. -1/+2 is a popular combo for low end torque.
 

Last edited by 74demon; 04-10-2012 at 11:01 AM.
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Old 04-10-2012, 10:57 AM
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If you've got the cash, it's definitely STRONGLY recommended that you change the chain and sprockets together.
As far as maximum strength, stay with the 530 chain, which is "wider" and stronger than a 525 or 520 - if you do go with a smaller (narrower), lighter chain and sprocket set, DON'T go for the cheapest you can find, because they will wear a little faster anyway, by virtue of being narrower.
Stock 530 size, and a good, reputable brand, is your longest lasting option.
As for tooth-count, just going up 2 teeth in the rear, will give you noticeable gains in acceleration, without sacrificing TOO much fuel economy - I'm running AFAM sprockets, two teeth up in the rear, stock front tooth-count, and a D.I.D chain (all 520), and I'm still hitting over 140 mph indicated - I have not yet had a chance to safely stretch the legs, since this change, and see what indicated top speed I can acheive.
This setup cut 2.5 lbs of overall weight.

Good luck!
 
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Old 04-10-2012, 11:05 AM
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thx for the advice. JNS so you went with a smaller chain and sprocket combo to cut the weight of the bike down? Any good sites you'd recommend for the chain and sprocket?
 
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Old 04-10-2012, 11:53 AM
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Yeah, the smaller chain and sprockets cut down 2.5 lb overall, which is also less rotating mass for the engine to "move" - but, just keep in mind what I said about longevity - the narrower they are, the quicker they will wear.
However, being that I ONLY run AFAM sprockets and D.I.D chains, I can say that they will not wear as fast as off-brand cheap stuff - also bear in mind, that the lighter alloy rear sprocket wears a little bit faster than steel, because of it's composition, on top of being a 520, rather than 530.
For me, quicker wear with the smaller and lighter "race" sets, is an acceptible part of the game.
I just shop for the bits wherever I get the best price, but I believe that Sprocketcenter.com is where I procurred the last two sets.
 
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Old 04-10-2012, 12:42 PM
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thank you is changing the sprockets something ill be able to do? most of the kits have both sprockets included so i was thinkin -1/+2 or maybe even +5 in rear. I just dont wanna be topping out under 120ish
 
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Old 04-10-2012, 01:22 PM
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if you have the means to get the rear wheel off, sprocket changing is a piece of cake. read up on how to replace the chain to see if its something you are comfortable with doing.

Gearing Commander: Motorcycle Speed, RPM, Chain & Sprockets Calculator will give you all your speeds and rpms with whatever sprocket combo you can think of. +5 will kill your top end and make it really easy to do wheelies. it may also require a longer chain. i wouldn't go any more than -1/+2 unless you are planning on stunting.
 
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Old 04-10-2012, 01:27 PM
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+5 in the rear is straight stunta chain!!!!!
 
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Old 04-10-2012, 02:38 PM
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If you go -1 in the front and +5 in the rear, you are going to need plenty of earplugs, and a lot more fuel-ups!!
-1 in the front is equivalent to about +3 in the rear, on its own.
Unless your goal is to wheelie in the first 4 gears (pending your power output, of course) and shift a lot more often, I would not go that high for the street/highway, but that's just me - it really depends on what you are wanting to accomplish - what type of riding you do primarily, and where.
I raced before (in days of yore) and will soon be racing agian, with my old CBR, and with my new R1 next season (2013), and the key for me is gearing for the circuit in question, so, like I said, it all depends on what you're trying to do - you can always try one combination, and switch sizes, to find the right balance of acceleration, economy, and top speed.
 
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Old 04-10-2012, 03:08 PM
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yea unfortunately i have to ride my bike year round do to dwis and high car insurance. so im gonna do the -1/+2 instead i commute alot put almost 2500 miles on it since november.Im looking at the AFAM 520 worslite alloy combo and thinking bout upgrading to the DID ERV3 chain probably gonna cost about $230ish not sure bout shipping on the Sprocketcenter site. But my ? is what are the stock sizes for sprockets it says 15/43 on that site but have seen 14 as the stock front also? The stock chain is 108 links?and that will fit on the -1/+2 setup as well?thx for all of your help greatly appreciated
 

Last edited by Rob Eccleston; 04-10-2012 at 03:11 PM.


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