CBR 600F2 1991 - 1994 CBR 600F2

600rr Tail Conversion

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  #11  
Old 06-15-2010, 02:07 PM
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didn't manage to document it w/ picutues to do a how-to did ya? :-)

Would make a Joe Camel or Repsol paint job really pop with that tail on it. (and I've got 3/4 of the Camel kit.)
 
  #12  
Old 06-15-2010, 02:19 PM
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no blue or yellow sticking with green, orange, silver, grey and black

and yes I took pictures of the process and could make a how-to but truth be told you dont need one. You just need some imagination, some time to think about it before you start cutting and having the ***** to actually finally cut your panels (I nearly crapped my pants at that stage cause there is no turning back.)
 
  #13  
Old 06-15-2010, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Nye
no blue or yellow sticking with green, orange, silver, grey and black

and yes I took pictures of the process and could make a how-to but truth be told you dont need one. You just need some imagination, some time to think about it before you start cutting and having the ***** to actually finally cut your panels (I nearly crapped my pants at that stage cause there is no turning back.)

Understood - the tail panels are the only parts that survived the PO's laydown w/ no damage. Cutting up perfectly good plastics has to be a ballsy move.

I plan on patching up the fairings on mine, once I see how this material I'm using is to work with, I might be willing to make the attempt on the tail. I'd like to smooth in the front signals like you did as well.
 
  #14  
Old 06-15-2010, 03:08 PM
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well what is the material that you are using. I was told to use a product call t-21 made by lord fusor. It was wonderful to work with had plenty of working time and easy to mold and sand. Took over night to dry but that didnt bother me. It is a product that is made to flex a bit more making it ideal for bike panels. I highly highly recommend it. It is a two part material that you need some special chauk gun for that is like $120 I cut the two tubes apart on the band saw and used home depot chauk guns cost me like $3.00 and work just as well if not better.
 
  #15  
Old 06-15-2010, 03:38 PM
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My local auto-body product distributor guys recommended this stuff:

http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=242


they say that the same company makes a Urethane/ABS product, but that this stuff is just as good, but adds in ability to bond metal to metal. This is the stuff a body shop uses to put a new outer door skin on a car door instead of welding.

supposedly workable for 30-45mins, and sandable in 8 hrs. Loads into a normal caulk gun, and the 2 parts are in one tube, special tips blend it together so it comes out ready to apply.
 
  #16  
Old 06-16-2010, 10:39 AM
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yeah use whatever you feel comfortable with... The product I used was recommended by a professional painter that has done some of the meaning paint and body work I have ever seen...It works great as you can see by the results but it is which ever product you feel comfortable with
 
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