600rr Tail Conversion
#11
#12
no blue or yellow sticking with green, orange, silver, grey and black
and yes I took pictures of the process and could make a how-to but truth be told you dont need one. You just need some imagination, some time to think about it before you start cutting and having the ***** to actually finally cut your panels (I nearly crapped my pants at that stage cause there is no turning back.)
and yes I took pictures of the process and could make a how-to but truth be told you dont need one. You just need some imagination, some time to think about it before you start cutting and having the ***** to actually finally cut your panels (I nearly crapped my pants at that stage cause there is no turning back.)
#13
no blue or yellow sticking with green, orange, silver, grey and black
and yes I took pictures of the process and could make a how-to but truth be told you dont need one. You just need some imagination, some time to think about it before you start cutting and having the ***** to actually finally cut your panels (I nearly crapped my pants at that stage cause there is no turning back.)
and yes I took pictures of the process and could make a how-to but truth be told you dont need one. You just need some imagination, some time to think about it before you start cutting and having the ***** to actually finally cut your panels (I nearly crapped my pants at that stage cause there is no turning back.)
Understood - the tail panels are the only parts that survived the PO's laydown w/ no damage. Cutting up perfectly good plastics has to be a ballsy move.
I plan on patching up the fairings on mine, once I see how this material I'm using is to work with, I might be willing to make the attempt on the tail. I'd like to smooth in the front signals like you did as well.
#14
well what is the material that you are using. I was told to use a product call t-21 made by lord fusor. It was wonderful to work with had plenty of working time and easy to mold and sand. Took over night to dry but that didnt bother me. It is a product that is made to flex a bit more making it ideal for bike panels. I highly highly recommend it. It is a two part material that you need some special chauk gun for that is like $120 I cut the two tubes apart on the band saw and used home depot chauk guns cost me like $3.00 and work just as well if not better.
#15
My local auto-body product distributor guys recommended this stuff:
http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=242
they say that the same company makes a Urethane/ABS product, but that this stuff is just as good, but adds in ability to bond metal to metal. This is the stuff a body shop uses to put a new outer door skin on a car door instead of welding.
supposedly workable for 30-45mins, and sandable in 8 hrs. Loads into a normal caulk gun, and the 2 parts are in one tube, special tips blend it together so it comes out ready to apply.
http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=242
they say that the same company makes a Urethane/ABS product, but that this stuff is just as good, but adds in ability to bond metal to metal. This is the stuff a body shop uses to put a new outer door skin on a car door instead of welding.
supposedly workable for 30-45mins, and sandable in 8 hrs. Loads into a normal caulk gun, and the 2 parts are in one tube, special tips blend it together so it comes out ready to apply.
#16
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
cds83
Private 'Wanted' Classifieds
0
07-03-2013 12:05 AM