1994 CBR600F2 is my temp normal?
#1
03-19-2018, 01:21 PM
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1994 CBR600F2 is my temp normal?
Im a new rider and i just bought a 94 CBR600F2 and idk if it’s getting high or if this is normal for this bike. Can anybody help me?
Oh and to add on, my bike seems to shut down every time the gas gets low... but there is still some in there...
back story...
so i was riding my bike around my area and all of a sudden my bike starts losing rpms as im throttling. I down shifted to first gear and got to safety but when the bike stop it turned completely off. I turned the key off and waited 5 minuets then tried to start it again and it did start but as soon as I tried giving it gas it shut off. I had it towed home and started playing with it a little and the battery died so I changed it up until the next day and still nothing so i got a new battery and still nothing.... I decided to look in the gas take and saw it had only a little gas ( but still had some ) so i got about a gallon with a gas can and put it in my bike and it decided to start up lik nothing happened... i filled her up and kept her filled up ever since... any help?
#2
03-19-2018, 06:44 PM
For riding in traffic on a warm day, that temp isn't anything to worry about. But there seems to be a real fluctuation from bike to bike on what the temp gauge reads (mine usually reads really low, and rarely gets even 1/2 way up the scale, so I may either be in the market for a thermostat, or my gauge is just bOrked...but it has been like that for years).
As far as the stalling, the in-tank screen attached to the petcock may need cleaning, and the petcock as well. The F2 (and some F3's) have a vacuum activated petcock (needs engine vacuum to allow fuel flow). I got tired of fighting mine, and replaced it with a petcock from a '98 that does not have the vacuum connection (have to plug the vacuum port on carb #1). If the bike has sat for a while, the whole insides of the tank may need a serious cleaning to prevent a recurrence.
You may also need to disassemble and clean the carbs. It's a PITA, labor-wise, but overall not difficult. There's tons of basic guides online and on YouTube showing what is needed. Getting the carbs off the hardened rubber intake runners is probably the hardest part, and if you get that far there are ways to get it done...just post here and we'll help.
If you do not know how old the coolant in the bike is, it is time for a flush and fill. And if you're going to that trouble, ought to replace the thermostat as well. I'll copy & paste from an earlier post here:
As far as the stalling, the in-tank screen attached to the petcock may need cleaning, and the petcock as well. The F2 (and some F3's) have a vacuum activated petcock (needs engine vacuum to allow fuel flow). I got tired of fighting mine, and replaced it with a petcock from a '98 that does not have the vacuum connection (have to plug the vacuum port on carb #1). If the bike has sat for a while, the whole insides of the tank may need a serious cleaning to prevent a recurrence.
You may also need to disassemble and clean the carbs. It's a PITA, labor-wise, but overall not difficult. There's tons of basic guides online and on YouTube showing what is needed. Getting the carbs off the hardened rubber intake runners is probably the hardest part, and if you get that far there are ways to get it done...just post here and we'll help.
If you do not know how old the coolant in the bike is, it is time for a flush and fill. And if you're going to that trouble, ought to replace the thermostat as well. I'll copy & paste from an earlier post here:
Other concerns? Seems most riders ignore their cooling system. Bad idea (really bad) with aluminum engines. Flush well, add some cooling system flush and run it for a few hours (you can even use straight white vinegar, but you'll need to flush that out with water and flush again with a water and baking soda mix to neutralize the acetic acid, then flush that stuff out a few times). No need to dilute the vinegar...it's already mostly water. I also blast out the coolant reservoir with water and suck it dry with a wet/dry vacuum that has a tube attachment that fits into the opening. And...with the radiator hose disconnected at the water pump, I use a compressor & air nozzle at the radiator opening to try and blow out all the water I can before refilling. Once well flushed and drained, refill with an antifreeze designed for aluminum engines...either the Honda brand coolant, or (this is what I use and recommend) Valvoline Asian Vehicle Antifreeze (auto parts stores carry it too).
Always buy the 50/50 mix. The water used in these mixes is de-mineralized and deionized and 100x better than tap water or even distilled water. An F3 should take close to a full gallon (IIRC).
Always buy the 50/50 mix. The water used in these mixes is de-mineralized and deionized and 100x better than tap water or even distilled water. An F3 should take close to a full gallon (IIRC).
Last edited by EchoWars; 03-19-2018 at 06:46 PM.
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