Has anybody fitted these cheap plastic throttle lock things to a F1?

Sound Off Recreational, Inc. - Cruise Control Products

I'm planning to install either Vista Cruise #MCVICO or N.E.P. #CC3

These models are listed in the fit chart to suite F2 but there is not F1 mentioned.

Is there a significant difference between F1 and F2 handle bar switch housings? If F1's housing is bigger would there be enough space for the thumb lever mechanism?

That little retaining foot underside the lock shouldn't be a problem. I think it could be modified if needed. Also it seems that the grip rubber needs a little slice to be cutted off.

Throttlemeister or KAOKO throttle locks would be a lot neater, but I'm not going to spend over $100 for those at the moment.

And please don't mention Cramp Buster or Throttle Rocker. They cause more pain than relief to me.

 

The f1 and f2 switchgear are the same. As far as I remember! Still have the f1 but sold the f2 ages ago lol...

 

I had one of that style on one of my bikes. It's just a clamp type...doesn't work as a tensioner if you are looking for that. I didn't like it much.

 

I ordered Vista-Cruise for Honda bikes and installed it recently. On F1 that retaining foot doesn't fit directly between throttle cable guides as for F2 or newer Hondas. But that is really not a problem. I found out that when thumb lever is pointing almost downwards its much easier to engage. Disengaging is done by index finger. This kind of operation feels almost natural after a few minutes of drive. And couple of advantages more left to mention: starter button is easier to reach because that lever is out of the way. Then for esthetics - the device is less visible. There is a good clearance between the lever and tank, so it shouldn't be engaged by accident.

In my opinion Vista Cruise should have been designed to operate this way originally...

Before installation i did one modification to the device. I wrapped a 320 grit sand paper around 1" (or 25mm) pipe and used it to smooth out the inner surface of the device to be absolutely round and flat.

The instructions say it's not necessary to remove the grip. Well, that's rubbish. There is no way it would fit on its place without serious dragging. I wonder how many customers have even tried to fit it this way on any bike.

And then to the assembly procedures.

First the grip is pulled out and all glue residues cleaned. I used duct tape to peel that soft glue off.



The retaing foot is in contact with switch housing. Rotating to other way is prevented by a DIY retainer. I used a piece of steel fixing band which is bended and slotted (with dremel tool) to go between switch housing and cable guide lock nut. I finished it with matte black spray paint.



Device comes with clear plastic spacer which purpose is to prevent dragging between grip and cruise. Because the original spacer is split on one side i tossed it away. I made a solid spacer of otherwise similar plastic film but colour was black.

Because the device is about 1/6" (or 4.5mm) thick I made a spacer to go between bar end weight and it's housing. This way there is no need to cut the grip shorter. Spacer is made of a piece of aluminium rod which is filed to a stepped shape. Bar end weight needs a bit longer screw. I welded some extension to the original.



Then I fixed the grip back on. I used thick super glue gel which was spreaded eavenly inside the grip with a shaft of a screw driver.

Today I finally went for a test drive for a few hours. Well, i was very happily surprised. It works absolutely flawlessly. I was planning to use it only intermittently to give short breaks for my wrist. But no, I ended up using the
cruise engaged all the time when going on straight highways. It works so good. Speed remains amazingly constant. Only minor adjustments is needed now and then depending on speed limits and traffic. Throttle is not completely clamped, so adjusting is done while cruise is engaged.

Best $25 i have used on this hobby so far. I honestly think this is a better solution than Throttlemeister or Kaoko would have been.





Looking at photos... My next job will be painting bar end weights and switch housings. Only wondering how to restore scuffed letters and symbols. Some embossings are combletely worn off...

 

Old thread I know, but question. Did you get the 7/8ths or the 1 " for this? I got a cherry '89 recently and want this! chzbykr@gmail.com

 

Hello, It's definitely made for Honda (CBR 600 F2 compatible), so I think it must be 7/8"

Maybe I have measured the pipe diameter wrong or something, because I didn't remove a lot of material - just smoothing the surface to improve it's fit and gripping. Anyways it's still working flawlessly and I totally recommend it.

 

Thank you for the reply. I'm going to try it, I was just concerned about if the surface under the grip was 7/8ths as the bar is?

 

I can't remember the exact diameter of the throttle tube but it's really easy to sand the hole slightly bigger.

Before my modding the adjustment screw had to be very tight to lock the throttle and then it had some drag while disengaged. After sanding it became perfect.