question regarding a possibly blown engine.
So now that i was thinking about it, my bike would rattle from the front, especially when cold. Thats the timing chain right? I thought they could go a while before adjusting, and im wondering if that was what went...would it ruin my entire engine? Theres coolant and oil all over my engine and i was thinking it was a blown headgasket, but it just doesnt make sense for the gasket to be blown as im not a noob that has no oil and coolant in his bike.
On the plus side, I bought some sea foam and got my roommate and I's"fixerupper" bikes running last night. His bike is an 89 fzr600 that has been sitting for YEARS....a little seafoam and its back to running again haha. My 96yxf750 still has some work (brakes bled, carbs ran through) but what do you expect with a bike thats 1 96 and only has 9k miles. Its been sitting a while too.
On the plus side, I bought some sea foam and got my roommate and I's"fixerupper" bikes running last night. His bike is an 89 fzr600 that has been sitting for YEARS....a little seafoam and its back to running again haha. My 96yxf750 still has some work (brakes bled, carbs ran through) but what do you expect with a bike thats 1 96 and only has 9k miles. Its been sitting a while too.
AFAIK, the timing chain tensioner sound would come right from the middle where the CCT is. It's the most noticeable when cold when you're at a mid to high rpm and let off, or if you blip the throttle when cold.
If it gets too far out of adjustment, I think it would be possible for you to get some valve-piston contact, but I don't know much about if that would contribute to your head gasket blowing.
If it is the head gasket, though, it's something you can deal with. Pain in the ***, but not too hard. If something cracked and broke, then you may be out of luck.
Or do what I did and go to a salvage yard and grab a whole new engine for a couple hundred bucks.
so the engine won't spin at all? Or just won't start?
Can you see where all the fluid is coming from? How does the seam between the head and the cylinders look?
If it gets too far out of adjustment, I think it would be possible for you to get some valve-piston contact, but I don't know much about if that would contribute to your head gasket blowing.
If it is the head gasket, though, it's something you can deal with. Pain in the ***, but not too hard. If something cracked and broke, then you may be out of luck.
Or do what I did and go to a salvage yard and grab a whole new engine for a couple hundred bucks.
so the engine won't spin at all? Or just won't start?
Can you see where all the fluid is coming from? How does the seam between the head and the cylinders look?
Yeah, im thinking about a new engine. The engine spins, but it doesnt catch. the seam looks physically damaged so idk what the hell happened haha. Im shifting focus to the yzf750 as of right now, as its something i know I can fix. I will start looking around for a new engine, but this bike is really a lot more of a project than i expected it, and im not going to be able to sell this for any profit whatsoever
Maybe you could luck out and take off the valve cover and retorque the nuts on the head studs. There's like a 1 in 50 chance that your head just wasn't torqued down and caused a leak around the head gasket. It probably won't start because there's **** all over the spark plugs.
Get that other bike going for sure, so you don't wanna hit something.
But before you throw down for a whole engine, I'd pull the spark plugs and the valve cover and look around. Retorque your head bolts and turn the engine by hand with a socket wrench through the clutch cover. If it doesn't make any nasty scraping noises, there's hope.
Get that other bike going for sure, so you don't wanna hit something.
But before you throw down for a whole engine, I'd pull the spark plugs and the valve cover and look around. Retorque your head bolts and turn the engine by hand with a socket wrench through the clutch cover. If it doesn't make any nasty scraping noises, there's hope.
Well the only good thing to come from this is the fact that I found a couple 1990 engines that would go with my carbs and i could just drop it in i think...hmm..Im not a sucker for buying new stuff needlessly, but i AM a sucker for about 10 more hp :P
Make sure to save your old engine. You need to use the triggers and pulse rotor from your 87-89 engine to work with your 87-89 CDI. You can just pull the whole LH cover off your old engine and use it, and just change the rotor. You'll know, because there's 4 wires from the 87-89 triggers that go up to that multi-connector in front of the battery box. the '90 connector is only 2 wires, but the same multi-connector.
Ask me how I know about that one. Took me a couple days of just staring. [&:]
Ask me how I know about that one. Took me a couple days of just staring. [&:]
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iamhiding
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Jul 2, 2014 04:49 PM




