CBR 600F 1987 - 1990 CBR 600F Forum

Purchasing an 88(I think) Hurricane tomorrow!

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  #11  
Old 04-14-2010, 05:54 PM
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I sure did! PDF format of the Haynes for this bike and the 900 I believe (It's not in front of me currently). Free online, sweeeet!

The goal of this Saturday is to get it to at least START again. I know I can deal with absolutely everything else, and their repair process is distinct. The issue that lead tot he motor not starting last time though is plagued with variables. Fried R/R? Toast CTT causing cam chain to skip a tooth and eat itself alive? Bad charging system? Slipping starter? Electrical Gremlin? Black cat crossed it's path? Jesus hates the bike?

Provided I can get it started, the project will be able to move forward as rapidly as parts arrive!
 
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Old 04-14-2010, 05:54 PM
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Oh yeah, and the exhaust is NOT stock and the filter is a K+N. I'll need to find out if it's been rejetted or not. If it hasn't it surely will need to be.
 
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Old 04-14-2010, 07:19 PM
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Try some fresh hi test gas and a boost. I usually use a car battery that I keep charged around the garage. If its been sitting for a while check the air filter too. I found an air cleaner stuffed full of dog food thanks to the resident rodents at the previous owners storage. Good luck!
 
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Old 04-14-2010, 10:33 PM
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Long past the air filter. It's a K+N filter and it looks kinda recent! I'll leave it be.

Battery is toast I presume as it sat for 3 years. It's only $40 for a new one so I'll pick that up soon.

Fuel pump... yeah I'll pump some fuel through that as a test. Hopefully its still full functional. I'll need to replace the fuel filter as well.

Spark plugs I'll replace just because. Might as well start fresh there. Spark plug wires are supposedly an issue. I'll check those when I get to them...


Right now the big headache is removing the ****i!ng screws holding the aribox to the carbs! They're all ****ing sealed in place, I can't get them to drill out, I tried the "easy out" before this and that failed as well! ARGH!
 
  #15  
Old 04-17-2010, 02:32 AM
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Alright so finally got those friggen screws off! I bought a dremel and we slotted the screws, enabling us to remove them.

We got to the carbs and they were in amazingly good shape! The bowls were infact dry, which kind of hints at where the issue was with this bike. I'm betting the fuel filter or the fuel pump were clogged and not allowing fuel to pass. This caused the bike to not start, and it sucked all the fuel that was in the float bowls out, hence the completely dry float bowls!

Tomorrows plan is replace spark plugs, and check spark. Once that's confirmed, check fuel pump. Replace if nescessary. Replace fuel filter. Clean carbs, adjust to factory settings, and then try and get it to start up!

It does look promising though. The results of opening up the carbs somewhat really hints at why it wouldn't start, and it's not suggesting engine failure, it's suggesting something simple and modular prior to the carbs!
 
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Old 04-17-2010, 06:31 PM
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Alright, so today was going to be the big day, but then a slight disaster occured. The plastic for fuel delivery to the float bowls SNAPPED! It was extremely brittle, and when removing the hose it just friggen gave away! ARGH! We got some marine something or other glue, which isn't gas soluble and should work for a repair! The glue though needs a day to set and what not... so the project largely came to a halt.

We did however get a bunch of other stuff done. The now brand new fully charged battery cranked the motor over great, and it sounded wonderful. We then sprayed some carb cleaner in each intake, and the motor ran for a very brief second. It sounded great, and it's a pretty good sign that this bike will run!

We tested the fuel pump, and while it only pushed a trickle of fuel, it did infact move fuel. Not an entirely bad sign really. I'm not quite sure how much fuel it should be moving, but overall it seems tolerable. I replaced the fuel filter with a larger fram one. As the fuel pump still moves fuel, I'm wondering where the issue is from. I kinda think the tank may have run dry and the owner didn't know about the reserve switch, heh. Anyways, the filter was cheap to replace.

We did the spark plugs and checked spark. The spark plug wires were all seating horribly though, and merely bumping them indicated that a few only sitting ontop of the spark plugs, not actually locked on. While changing the spark plugs we used some WD-40 and the old plugs to make sure we could get them to lock into the wires, and we quickly were able to get everything setup fine. Anyways even the old plugs sparked fine, but since I bought the new ones for only $2.50 a piece, we dropped them in and were good to go.

Other than that I got the front brake calpiers back on and bolted down right, we put some lube in the chain in the hope that it would go fine again, and it sorta did. I cleaned a bunch of the frame off and what not, and just put some work into the bike.

It's coming along fast! Monday is my next day to work on the bike, and if the carbs are repaired properly, it should start and run! Once I know it starts and runs, I'll be good to go!
 
  #17  
Old 04-17-2010, 06:43 PM
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Pictures From todays work:
(kenny is in most the pictures, he's a rad kid contributing a lot of knowledge to this project. I'd not do nearly as good of a job without him!)



Checking the fuel pump. Cranking the leftover ****ty fuel into the apple juice container, heh.



The bike, sans all plastics. God damn it's naked!



Kenny, in the process of glueing the damaged part of the carbs in the hopes that this will adequately solve our problem!



Kenny, yet again in the process of glueing the damaged part of the carbs in the hopes that this will adequately solve our problem!




More fuel pump testing. Also a good picture of the naked bike!
 
  #18  
Old 04-18-2010, 12:14 AM
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great pics keep em coming! also did you say the frame slider was from an f2? If so what was needed for it to work?
 
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Old 04-18-2010, 09:07 PM
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It requires very little to fit the frame sliders onto this bike, but I've yet to investigate how much it takes to cut the platics. Pretty much what you do is take the stock bolts and remove them. Calculate the additional length nescessary to hold the frame sliders as well, and then go get bolts that length. It will cost you $30 at most.
 
  #20  
Old 04-19-2010, 01:46 AM
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So I put the carbs back on the bike, re-attached the exhaust as best as I could (a few studs snapped, argh!), put the airbox on, and fired it up without the choke. It started RIGHT up! No hesitation, got going, and idled! Damn! I then put on the choke and it rallied right up to 2.5k no problemo!

This was with the air filter out by accident! I put it in, started it up again, and sure enough it ran like no ones business WITHOUT choke! It idled right at 1k no problem! Man oh man this bike is GOOD!

Next plan is to replace the broken part or get some rejetted carbs from a guy who used to race these bikes. I'd jet it myself, but with that broken fuel rail I'm a bit hesitant!


Anyways, I'm stoked. The motor is a friggen CHAMP! It wants to run in the worse way! If the motor was abused and crappy it would hesitate, it wouldn't like the exhaust leaks or the missing air filter, it would sputter and be holy hell. The bike however is spot on bad *** awesomeness!


Anyways, more to come, along with pictures. Oh yeah, and the exhaust on this bike is GANGSTER!
 


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