Hurricane cylinder washing
Bike has had cylinder washing before, blamed it on a leaking float and the petcock in the on position for 2 days causing the entire tank to drain into the crankcase and fill the cylinders up to the carbs, after rebuilding engine with new rings and valves and the carbs were rebuilt and floats were checked I thought I was having a issue with my fuel pump not supplying enough fuel to the engine so I bypassed the fuel pump and went to gravity feed from the tank for testing purposes, the bike still starved of fuel even on gravity feed, shoved a bore scope into the tank to find the filter is clogged with sediment. After discovering this I turned the petcock to the off position so I would not have cylinder washing again, waited a week for parts to come in only to find when I was pulling the fuel lines apart that all the gas magically disappeared in the lines, so I figured it was either evaporation, a leak in the line, or it somehow got into my crankcase again, I pulled the oil cap and it smelled very faintly of gas. I have not started or cranked the engine in fear of it destroying the crosshatching, what should be my next step? I know I have to change the oil and refresh the oil on the cylinder walls, how much oil should I pour down into my cylinders? How do I fix the carb leaking issue to ensure this stops happening? Its getting very annoying seeing i have changed the oil 5 times because gas is contaminated it.
It's hard to tell from a picture if it's worn. The best way to tell is to depress the little valve stem on the top. It should display resistance when you push it down. It should snap back smartly when released. If you have everything assembled and push the float all the way down, it should have some bounce in it if you release pressure quickly. If you compare these characteristics to the other needle valves, they should all be pretty much identical.
It's hard to tell from a picture if it's worn. The best way to tell is to depress the little valve stem on the top. It should display resistance when you push it down. It should snap back smartly when released. If you have everything assembled and push the float all the way down, it should have some bounce in it if you release pressure quickly. If you compare these characteristics to the other needle valves, they should all be pretty much identical.
I bought a carb rebuild set and im going to replace everything, now for the clyinder washing in order to restore the oil on rings how much oil should I pour down the spark plug hole?
After I installed the new needle seat, needle, and adjusted the float height to precisely 8mm it still leaks with fuel in the bowls. I was running the tank straight to the carbs to fill the bowls and they just started pouring gas out of the bottom. I put them on the bike and put a towel across and all 4 carbs are leaking gas down into the engine
After I installed the new needle seat, needle, and adjusted the float height to precisely 8mm it still leaks with fuel in the bowls. I was running the tank straight to the carbs to fill the bowls and they just started pouring gas out of the bottom. I put them on the bike and put a towel across and all 4 carbs are leaking gas down into the engine


