Handlebar risers
So, I picked up some factory Honda handle bar risers. The correct parts come from a Honda VFR from the same generation as the Hurricane, 80-90's. The new 250 Ninjas also use the same size clip ons.
During my original research I found the bars were a 2" rise with a 1" pull back. After getting them in hand and comparing them they are a 3" rise with 1.75" pull back. The bar end weights actually bolt on and do not slip inside like the canes stock ones.
Pics:
Stock bar


VFR bars

Installed


All in all, now that I am older and riding more with my family, I wanted to sit more upright for the longer rides. I also am not going as crazy into corners anymore and am more relaxed in my riding style. Mainly because my wife now rides with me on her Honda cruiser.
The VFR bars rise and pull back did require me to move the harness a little. There is more than enough slack in stock wiring for the change though. Just loosen the two tabs on the frame by the head tube and pull about 1.5" of slack towards the bars.
The Choke cable however is too short if you keep it routed like stock around the front of the shock tube. You have to take the cable out and route it behind the shock tube, directly towards the gas tank. If you do not, whenever you turn right the bike will shut off as the choke gets engaged 100% by about 10* past center. Moving it behind makes it work perfect with no issues.
Riding with the new risers is much more comfortable for the long drives. The effort to turn is not noticeably changed. I just sit up more straight now. All in all a worthwhile mod if you are looking for a more comfortable ride.
During my original research I found the bars were a 2" rise with a 1" pull back. After getting them in hand and comparing them they are a 3" rise with 1.75" pull back. The bar end weights actually bolt on and do not slip inside like the canes stock ones.
Pics:
Stock bar


VFR bars

Installed


All in all, now that I am older and riding more with my family, I wanted to sit more upright for the longer rides. I also am not going as crazy into corners anymore and am more relaxed in my riding style. Mainly because my wife now rides with me on her Honda cruiser.
The VFR bars rise and pull back did require me to move the harness a little. There is more than enough slack in stock wiring for the change though. Just loosen the two tabs on the frame by the head tube and pull about 1.5" of slack towards the bars.
The Choke cable however is too short if you keep it routed like stock around the front of the shock tube. You have to take the cable out and route it behind the shock tube, directly towards the gas tank. If you do not, whenever you turn right the bike will shut off as the choke gets engaged 100% by about 10* past center. Moving it behind makes it work perfect with no issues.
Riding with the new risers is much more comfortable for the long drives. The effort to turn is not noticeably changed. I just sit up more straight now. All in all a worthwhile mod if you are looking for a more comfortable ride.
Well, small update to this ancient thread. The choke cable snapped from how tight it had gotten plus being 27 years old and I had to replace it. I found the same generation 80-mid 90's Goldwing choke cable was about 14" longer and had the same ends on each side. I did have to modify the stock carb mounting bracket by bending it down with a vise and hammer as the Goldwing cable is thinner. Total time to install was 45 minutes, with modding the bracket.
Well, small update to this ancient thread. The choke cable snapped from how tight it had gotten plus being 27 years old and I had to replace it. I found the same generation 80-mid 90's Goldwing choke cable was about 14" longer and had the same ends on each side. I did have to modify the stock carb mounting bracket by bending it down with a vise and hammer as the Goldwing cable is thinner. Total time to install was 45 minutes, with modding the bracket.
The cable literally fits on both ends exactly, you just have to wrap the extra cable up somewhere. I just routed it in a loop around 2 of the carbs inlets. The mounting bracket has to be removed and then bent smaller to grab the thinner cable tightly. It is pretty self explanatory once you have it in hand. The top part is just a little "v" shape with a tab for the mounting screw. The bottom is the bracket and has the other half of the "v". A few taps with a hammer to shrink the "v"'s up is all that's needed.
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