Hi Drakito,

I want to remove the Air Surge Valve like you did, but don't want to take my head off. Is it ridiculous to ask if I can tap the ASVS holes in the head without removing the head? What size and length of bolt did you use? I'm guessing stainless steel for the bolt material. I thought of magnetizing the tap until I remembered that the head is aluminum....

 

My mechanic tapped it on the bike. He hand advanced the timing until the exhaust valves were open on the cylinder he was working on and put a airline with 50 psi into the spark plug hole. He also pulled the exhaust to keep from blowing the shavings down it.(Leakdown tester or compression tester has the fittings for an airline to spark plug adapter.) Used stainless bolts, but I don't know the exact length. Just pull the asv off and measure the distance to the bottom of the hole to the mm. Then get the closest bolt to that you can find. Also use at least grade5 or higher so the exhaust heat doesn't warp or de-temper the steel. Some of the early ca heads you just need a bolt the depth of the head material, so if the aluminum is 10mm thick then a 10mm depth on the bolt. The way to tell is if you can see the vavle directly back in the hole(measure head thickness), or if there is a chunk of aluminum blocking mostof the view of the valve(measure to the aluminum blockage). Good luck and use common sense.

 

This is what I did on my F2 when I removed the emissions stuff:
www.magneticdrainplug.com/Tech_Links/CBR_Desmog_1.html

Let me know if I can help in any other way.

Tim

 

Hey Guys,

I decided to take the plunge and start derestricting my bike. I removed the carbon canister. It ran better.

Since I don't have an air compressor, I decided to tap out the tubes going into the head from the air surge valve. I got a 3/8-16 tap, 4 stainless 1" long bolts, and 4 o-rings. I used a tiny pipe cutter, and cut the lines about 3" from the head. Then I tapped each one from the head side, screwed in the bolts which had on the o-rings and teflon tape from the valve side, then installed the "plugs" into the head using the original plates.

It comes off idle better now when riding, but there's a tapping sound that sounds like the valves need to be adjusted that wasn't there before.

I still need to find a 49 state carb in good shape, and get some neoprene caps for plugging up the various places I removed emissions tubes from. Also, since the valve timing is so ridiculously retarded on the Cali bike, I'm in the market for some 49 state cams. Anybody know of a good place to find the neoprene caps?

I'll take some pics when it stops raining.

Thanks for the tips. Oh, and I did find the 91-octane sticker-it's on the frame under the right hand tail/side cover. Again, I'll send a pic. Redeemed!

 

I started making my cali bike a 49-state legal. I bought the 49-state cams and carbs, but I haven't installed yet.

I'll be subscribing to this thread and I'll be sure to report back when I'm done.

 

BTW, I was able to remove the canister pretty easily. I forget what I had to plug and what hoses I was able to pull, but it was pretty simple.

 

When I pulled the smog crap off mine, I just cut the flange off the ACV pipes where they attach to the head, stuck a short screw in em, went around the screw headwith JBweld, and re-attached them. No leaks and the bike ran great!

I've since opened up the airbox a bit, and I'm trying to get the damn thing to run right..... I just went through all four carbs and plugged the vacuum hoses... If it works I'll let you guys know.

 

I've been working on my bike since Februaryand just can't get it to run right! I took off all the emissions stuff, switched the airbox and carbs to a 49 state, tried doing a stage one jet kit, tapped and plugged the asv holes going into the head. Ever since I worked on my bike last February it has been running like crap while getting 25 miles per gallon. I figured we hooked part of the emissions up wrong. When I took the 49 state carbs I got on ebay apart, I found bigger jets than the ones recommended in the Jet kit I had. So I put the smaller jets in, set the needle height at 3 groovesfrom the bottom, and have gone from there. The bike runs so f*&&^n' rich that it never warms up. It backfires if it's below 1200 rpm. The backfiring is happening as afterburn in the Supertrapp slip on. So I just kept dropping the needles. The best I got was when I dropped the needles all the way but left one washer under them. I had a pretty bad stumble at about 5k rpm, but at least it started pulling hard starting around 6k, and backfired less. Still got just 25 mpg.-I can go 75 miles before I have to turn on reserve.

What else should I do? I took the washer out and it runs worse with the needles losered that much more. But even with the one washer in, it was still too rich-so much so that the choke doesn't raise the rpms when it's cold. What's my next step? What makes sense? I bought 49 state cams, which means I'll have to redo everything once I install them. But in the meantime, how can I get it to run less rich, and get rid of the stumble at 5k? Should I be checking the mixture screws again? should I try hotter plugs? I'm so frustrated I'm close to selling it, but it's really the bike I want. I also did a -1 front +1 rear sprocket change with a 530 chain, have changed all the wheel bearings, put Progressive suspension fork springs in (much better ride), aK and N air filter, put on new BT-45 tires, and have changed the front and rear brakes pads as well as flushing the lines. In short, I have a lot of time and money and heart invested in this bike.

Why is it running so damn rich??????

 

what happens if you use stock jets? at stock settings? start at the beginning.

i would start from stock, stock jets, stock settings. make sure carbs are in proper working order (fuel flow, floats, clean jets, clean air screws, synced, etc.). i know, lots of time wasted, but may save you time down the road, metaphorically speaking.

now, after all that, how does the engine behave throughout the rpm range and at startup (warm and cold). without knowing what size jets you are using now, i can't diagnose much further. pull a plug out if you have to just to see if burn is getting leaner.

running very rich = dumping lots of fuel, more than can be burned => backfire => other bad things that could happen. you went to smaller jets, less backfire, now go smaller.

 

Thanks for the advice. One thing that's complicating things is that stock on the california bike means that the intake lobes on the cam are retarded about 12 degrees from the 49 state bike. I guess without the extra air supply at the intake from the asv valve the result is rich running. The thing is this-when I pulled the Calif carbs, they had 100+ jets in them and it had been running okay and getting 50 mpg.

So I have a 49 state bike with calif cams. changing the cams isn't going to happen anytime soon, so I want to get it running well as it is. The main thing that bothered me when I had 1 washer under the K and N needles was the stumble at 5k rpm. But aside from the gas mileage, that's the best it has run since february. A friend of mine suggested looking into switching the pilot jet because that's the "transition" jet from idle up the when the main jet takes over.

I also wonder if anyone makes an ignition retarding device-since the intake valves open so late, maybe that would help. Has anyone ever heard of such a thing?