Switch ASSY Start Stop

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Old Jan 12, 2024 | 11:52 PM
  #1  
jrlyon's Avatar
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Default Switch ASSY Start Stop

Has anyone replaced their Start / Stop switch on a 2007 CBR1000RR ?

I fueled up and afterwards I switched the engine stop switch to off to reset my trip meters.

I switched it back to run and there was no fuel prime until I flipped the the engine stop switch from stop to run position a couple of times.

I have ordered a new Start/Stop Switch and hope that I can just remove the handle bar weight, open up the throttle and remove the throttle cables, slide the throttle and grip off, unplug the start/stop switch from the wiring harness, loosen the screws and slid it off the bar. Then install the new one.

I sure don't want to remove the right fork to get the clip on off and then disassemble the throttle and the start/stop switch.

Thank you ,

Jim Lyons


 
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Old Jan 13, 2024 | 03:16 AM
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Ed Harris's Avatar
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Nothing like so complicated.

Undo the two screws, 12 and 13, disconnect the wires from the front brake switch and the wiring connector from the headlight nacelle and the switch assembly will come away. The throttle cables stay with the twist grip, the weight stays on the handlebar etc.

In fact, it would have been worthwhile taking the switch assembly off and cleaning it out before ordering a replacement.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2024 | 12:12 PM
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Yeah, usually it’s just the switch contacts being dirty or corroded. Honda doesn’t use top-shelf mil-spec components, but more reasonably-priced mid-range components. They work great for 10-20yrs, but time, age and weather gets to them. Switch is not waterproof and moisture gets in to corrode bare metal contacts inside. Carefully take it apart and look at metal contacts. Clean off dirt & corrosion with this stuff. Good idea to check other easy to reach connectors and clean up bare metal terminals as well.

Amazon - DeoxIT L260-DG1, Lithium Grease with Cleaner/Deoxidizer Amazon - DeoxIT L260-DG1, Lithium Grease with Cleaner/Deoxidizer
 

Last edited by dannoxyz; Jan 14, 2024 at 08:16 PM.
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Old Jan 13, 2024 | 11:17 PM
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Ed,

I took the switch off as you instructed abd cleaned the contact. I just used rubbing alcohol as it did not look there was any grease on it to begin with.

It works alot better and now when you operate it, it works every time. Before you could even jus press down on the run side of the switch while the bike was running and it would kill the engine.

Do I need to put some dielectric grease on it?

If I should have to change the switch one of these days, how do you get to the connector to un-plug it from the wiring harness? I could not even see it, and removed the push pin and the two wire that were attached to the plastic plate, one of them being the Start/Stop swich wire and still could not see the connector.

Thank you for your help!

Jim Lyons
 
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Old Jan 14, 2024 | 07:53 AM
  #5  
Ed Harris's Avatar
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Glad that helped but I fear I cannot help with the access as I’ve never worked on a ‘Blade.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2024 | 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by jrlyon
Do I need to put some dielectric grease on it?

If I should have to change the switch one of these days, how do you get to the connector to un-plug it from the wiring harness? I could not even see it, and removed the push pin and the two wire that were attached to the plastic plate, one of them being the Start/Stop swich wire and still could not see the connector.
Don’t use dielectric (silicone) grease on metal contacts, it’s not conductive. It’s for pushing into back of connectors to keep moisture from reaching metal terminals and corroding them. Use Deoxit product I linked above directly on metal switch contacts. It cleans off existing corrosion, seals against moisture & future corrosion and it’s conductive.

To replace switch, get entire assembly #3


Disconnect 2x wires to brake-lever switch

Trace start/stop switch wires down until you find its connector plugged into harness. Will be somewhere near right fork-tube under bodywork. Keep on removing panels until you see it.
 

Last edited by dannoxyz; Jan 14, 2024 at 08:28 PM.
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