I use the Honda stuff but I don't pay the overpriced dealer fees. I use Honda GN4 10W-40. I get mine from Rocky Mountain ATV*MC. It's around $5.50/qt when I buy it by the case and free shipping for orders over $99.

The oil filter is a Honda OEM 15410-MFJ-D01. I bought a pack of 10 for around $7 each off Amazon last year, although I don't see the listing any longer.

As long as you keep receipts of your regular maintenance purchases you can do your own service intervals and your warranty will be OK. I downloaded a free PDF copy of my service manual. With that, plus a few how-to articles people have written, I'm saving lots of money and I know the job isn't being rushed through and is done right.

Here's one of those how-to articles on changing your oil. It was written for the 08 but yours shouldn't be much different.

Oil Service - CBR1000RR DIY

 

Yea I have done mechanic work my whole life I don't like letting other people work on my stuff. Ok ive been tryin to learn as much as I can about this bike before I need to know it. Is it true the plastics are harder to take off then others?

 

Yes, most owners think they are a PITA to remove. The interlocking tabs are supposed to reduce the screws and fasteners that hold everything together but they are a royal pain to work with. It seems like you need 6 hands sometimes when putting everything back on and you're trying to align 12 tabs all at the same time.

Here's a few links on how they come off on an 08. Yours should be about the same.

08 Mid Cowl Removal

08 Upper Cowl Removal

 

Ok don't seem to bad. Hopefully I wont need to remove them for awhile. Thanks for all the info definitely appreciate it.

 

your bike has already been redlined. ride it as you normally would.

 

Well after the 200 mark I quit completely babying it but I havnt been just ******* it either. It needs a pipe soon way to quiet

 

Until you get a new pipe you can do the exhaust flapper mod, which will make it sound lots better. The exhaust flapper is an EPA gadget that closes one of the exhaust ports until the bike reaches 5k rpm and then opens up. Removing the cable to the flapper keeps it open all the time.

You can remove the cable entirely but keep the servo plugged in and the pulley in the home position or you'll get a fault code. There is a tiny aftermarket add-on which you can buy for around $20 that plugs in place of the servo and you can then remove the servo and free up some space under the seat for various things later.

 

Ok I might try that. I have been looking at the fmf apex. If I get one of them do I have to do anything special so it doesn't throw codes?

 

As long as you keep the servo plugged in and don't change the position of the pulley on it you won't get a code. You can remove the servo entirely if you get the little servo eliminator plug-in that I mentioned in the other message. A guy on another forum makes and sells them for around $20.

 

Ok. Hopefully I can get the fmf soon but I may have to do the flapper valve thing.