What does it feel like when your steering bearings start to wear
#31
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And for the viewers that do not know me , I am 56 with over 30 years on the road , on many different types of bikes and over 400,000 klms ...
I do not speak from lack of experience or from a lack of experiencing at all manner of high speed miles ....
I just want new riders to know that things(these CBR's) can be maintained at a level that is safe , but not necessarily to an extent where they wind up too scared to ride the dam things, because they think there bike is not totally safe ....
and anyone ( members that know me ) mention my departed dog and I will ban there **** into next week .... !! .... lol
I am being serious and not emotional ....
I just read way too much in depth chit about maintinance on these tough **** 1000F CBRs .....
....
I do not speak from lack of experience or from a lack of experiencing at all manner of high speed miles ....
I just want new riders to know that things(these CBR's) can be maintained at a level that is safe , but not necessarily to an extent where they wind up too scared to ride the dam things, because they think there bike is not totally safe ....
and anyone ( members that know me ) mention my departed dog and I will ban there **** into next week .... !! .... lol
I am being serious and not emotional ....
I just read way too much in depth chit about maintinance on these tough **** 1000F CBRs .....
....
#32
So I guess that's about the end of this thread is it Steve?
Funny, I was just begining to think about bringing $60k's worth of robotic theodilite home from work to check my wheel alignment bit I'm now thinking that's probably a bit overkill aye?
PS : Like when talking to Germans I promise not to mention the ...
Funny, I was just begining to think about bringing $60k's worth of robotic theodilite home from work to check my wheel alignment bit I'm now thinking that's probably a bit overkill aye?
PS : Like when talking to Germans I promise not to mention the ...
Last edited by kiwi TK; 06-14-2011 at 05:29 AM.
#33
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So I guess that's about the end of this thread is it Steve?
Funny, I was just begining to think about bringing $60k's worth of robotic theodilite home from work to check my wheel alignment bit I'm now thinking that's probably a bit overkill aye?
PS : Like when talking to Germans I promise not to mention the ...
Funny, I was just begining to think about bringing $60k's worth of robotic theodilite home from work to check my wheel alignment bit I'm now thinking that's probably a bit overkill aye?
PS : Like when talking to Germans I promise not to mention the ...
I just wanted to point out a different attitude to some of the things that get rattled around here quite often mate ...
A good discussion board needs as many point's of view as possible to be balanced I recon ....
If that happens to kill a thread .... so friggin be it !! ...LOLOL
I was just begining to think about bringing $60k's worth of robotic theodilite home from work to check my wheel alignment bit I'm now thinking that's probably a bit overkill aye?
#34
Getting back slightly to the point of all this, I got some string out last night and checked wheel alignment. After careful set up I measured about 4 mm misalignment at the front wheel.
I'm confused.................how would you use a movable object to determine whether another object (which is fixed), is straight or not ???????????????
In other words, why not check, using whatever method, string, theodolite, etc etc THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE CENTRE OF YOUR REAR AXLE, AND THE MAIN BOLT HOLDING YOUR SWINGARM IN PLACE.
Surely this will be a more accurate measurement than using the front wheel, which can wobble about all over the place. ?
Your comments, oh brainstrust......................... please.
I'm confused.................how would you use a movable object to determine whether another object (which is fixed), is straight or not ???????????????
In other words, why not check, using whatever method, string, theodolite, etc etc THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE CENTRE OF YOUR REAR AXLE, AND THE MAIN BOLT HOLDING YOUR SWINGARM IN PLACE.
Surely this will be a more accurate measurement than using the front wheel, which can wobble about all over the place. ?
Your comments, oh brainstrust......................... please.
#35
You run the string off the FRONT of the front tire, then back along the sides of it. When you pull it back to your rear tire it should run parallel to the sides of both tires.
So, you do need to ensure the front tire is aligned with the main axis of the bike. That's step one. (The whole string method is also dependent on the front-end having been trued already.)
Ern
So, you do need to ensure the front tire is aligned with the main axis of the bike. That's step one. (The whole string method is also dependent on the front-end having been trued already.)
Ern
#36
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Getting back slightly to the point of all this, I got some string out last night and checked wheel alignment. After careful set up I measured about 4 mm misalignment at the front wheel.
I'm confused.................how would you use a movable object to determine whether another object (which is fixed), is straight or not ???????????????
In other words, why not check, using whatever method, string, theodolite, etc etc THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE CENTRE OF YOUR REAR AXLE, AND THE MAIN BOLT HOLDING YOUR SWINGARM IN PLACE.
Surely this will be a more accurate measurement than using the front wheel, which can wobble about all over the place. ?
Your comments, oh brainstrust......................... please.
I'm confused.................how would you use a movable object to determine whether another object (which is fixed), is straight or not ???????????????
In other words, why not check, using whatever method, string, theodolite, etc etc THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE CENTRE OF YOUR REAR AXLE, AND THE MAIN BOLT HOLDING YOUR SWINGARM IN PLACE.
Surely this will be a more accurate measurement than using the front wheel, which can wobble about all over the place. ?
Your comments, oh brainstrust......................... please.
oh brainstrust.
Exactly Pete ....
By measuring the axle centers , you are measuring the alignment of the 2 wheels .... (assuming you have straight wheels ..??? LOLOL
The front can and does wobble all over the place mate , BUT ...the center's between front and rear axle's does align the two wheels for better stability
..as per this.....
https://cbrforum.com/forum/how-tos-8...ne-home-98352/
So, you do need to ensure the front tire is aligned with the main axis of the bike. That's step one. (The whole string method is also dependent on the front-end having been trued already.)
Ern
Ern
I know I am only a dumb chit Tradie .. , but if my memory serves me right from back in the days of my 6th year of school, I think , that if you measure the gap at both the side's of both front and rear wheels and the gaps are equal on each wheel..... the bugger is straight!!! .....
I again refer you too this here ting .....
( measure the center's between the front axle and the swing arm ) of course , if you have one ****** ****er of a bent frame , all this goes to chit !!! ...LOL
https://cbrforum.com/forum/how-tos-81/wheel-alignment-done-home-98352/
( measure the center of the front axle and the swing arm FIRST!!! )
this ain't rocket scientry guy's
...but is is a very good discussion on this very important topic ....
Last edited by CBRclassic; 06-16-2011 at 05:07 AM.
#37
Steve,
after seeing your major ranting a couple of days ago I decided I shouldn't reply until I had some kind of protection so I write this with my laptop in a fume cabinet, bullet proof glass between me and the screen! he he...! (nervous laugh).
Anyway, the wheel alignment thing is a good twist for this thread to take. Many views, many methods, all with the same aim.
Your how to is great. Thanks for taking the time to do that one.
Now a little anecdote from a couple of days ago.
With my top box loaded with passenger gear after dropping my daughter to school I was tooling along some lovely country roads, came to a nice sweeping but fairly tight turn, braked, leaned in and the next thing I knew my bars were slaping back and forth. Sheeeeet!
I straightened up fractionally, braked as hard as I could and just about scraped round the bend with my front wheel in the gutter. Under pant changing time!
Anyway, the rest of the ride wasn't good. I felt really uncomfortable about the bikes handling. As soon as I got home I took the box off and gave the bike a good hammering round some more twisty roads and it was damned near perfect.
So. What now.
This has never happened before. The old Metzlers never struggled while carrying the same sort of weight although they didn't have same over all level of grip.
It could just be that the new Dunlop Q2's are not quite the ticket for carrying weight. They've got 3,000 miles on them over about 5 weeks so possibly as they're wearing in they may be changing characteristics.
That's just my thoughts about the possibility that the tyres are causing the problem or a part of it.
What's terrible though is the prospect of not being able to carry any weight on the back. That sucks. It's just not an option for me. The bike has to be mule too.
Thoughts gents.
after seeing your major ranting a couple of days ago I decided I shouldn't reply until I had some kind of protection so I write this with my laptop in a fume cabinet, bullet proof glass between me and the screen! he he...! (nervous laugh).
Anyway, the wheel alignment thing is a good twist for this thread to take. Many views, many methods, all with the same aim.
Your how to is great. Thanks for taking the time to do that one.
Now a little anecdote from a couple of days ago.
With my top box loaded with passenger gear after dropping my daughter to school I was tooling along some lovely country roads, came to a nice sweeping but fairly tight turn, braked, leaned in and the next thing I knew my bars were slaping back and forth. Sheeeeet!
I straightened up fractionally, braked as hard as I could and just about scraped round the bend with my front wheel in the gutter. Under pant changing time!
Anyway, the rest of the ride wasn't good. I felt really uncomfortable about the bikes handling. As soon as I got home I took the box off and gave the bike a good hammering round some more twisty roads and it was damned near perfect.
So. What now.
This has never happened before. The old Metzlers never struggled while carrying the same sort of weight although they didn't have same over all level of grip.
It could just be that the new Dunlop Q2's are not quite the ticket for carrying weight. They've got 3,000 miles on them over about 5 weeks so possibly as they're wearing in they may be changing characteristics.
That's just my thoughts about the possibility that the tyres are causing the problem or a part of it.
What's terrible though is the prospect of not being able to carry any weight on the back. That sucks. It's just not an option for me. The bike has to be mule too.
Thoughts gents.
#38
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Henry , me rant !!!.... ...no way hosey , just being my usual adorable self mate ....
Anyways , at least you lean't a solid lesson!!! ...(so I write this with my laptop in a fume cabinet, bullet proof glass between me and the screen! he he...! (nervous laugh).) always post in safety .... ..LOLOL..
As far as your front wheel wobble goes ....
3000 miles is more than enough to wear an edge on one or both sides Henry ... and when loading the rear with extra weight , the front gets lighter and any tire wear as minimal as it may be , will show it's ugly side with weird handling or wobbles mate ...
NOTE - that most guys are not aware of !!!!!
A major thing that does cause tire's to start to react strange in a Very short time , is cornering on one side more than the other , or doing allot of straight line chit in combination with allot of one sided cornering ...
OR , and a ton of excessive braking ???
(which in most cases is not the case riding on the roads)
bottom line Herny ...
It ain't yu wheel alignment
It ain't yu front end
It ain't yu head stem bearings
It ain't yu wheel bearings
It IS just a front tire that has worn weird and it don't like the extra weight on the rear much ATM ...
New tire , or ride slower till it's totally dead
Anyways , at least you lean't a solid lesson!!! ...(so I write this with my laptop in a fume cabinet, bullet proof glass between me and the screen! he he...! (nervous laugh).) always post in safety .... ..LOLOL..
As far as your front wheel wobble goes ....
3000 miles is more than enough to wear an edge on one or both sides Henry ... and when loading the rear with extra weight , the front gets lighter and any tire wear as minimal as it may be , will show it's ugly side with weird handling or wobbles mate ...
NOTE - that most guys are not aware of !!!!!
A major thing that does cause tire's to start to react strange in a Very short time , is cornering on one side more than the other , or doing allot of straight line chit in combination with allot of one sided cornering ...
OR , and a ton of excessive braking ???
(which in most cases is not the case riding on the roads)
bottom line Herny ...
It ain't yu wheel alignment
It ain't yu front end
It ain't yu head stem bearings
It ain't yu wheel bearings
It IS just a front tire that has worn weird and it don't like the extra weight on the rear much ATM ...
New tire , or ride slower till it's totally dead
#39
I've never run Dunflops on my bike (if you lived here you wouldn't either unless you wanted to be laughed out of the parking lot)
Having said that, the Metzelers which I'm running are known to take a while to heat up....and have been known to wobble a bit when cold.
I wonder if it was just a case of "cold edges" on the Dunflops ?
It has caught out enough Moto GP guys and others on warmup laps - we can't be immune to this without tyre warmers, colder weather (most of us) etc etc.
I do agree with Steve-o (allo Mate) and would add that the Dunflops, while purporting to be good ON LIGHTER BIKES don't do well on heavy girls like ours. They are inclined to wear on the edges, as they don't like the weight and wear out quickly. Don't forget a 1000RR is 70KG's or 150 pounds ! lighter sitting at the curb than our fat ladies. And I for sure wouldn't fit them even to one of those....
Sounds like a combination of "squirm" under the weight, and a bit o' wear and some spirited "Enry style" underpants wrecking cornering with a bit of increased centre of gravity upward movement from the luggage load.
My tuppence worth.............
Having said that, the Metzelers which I'm running are known to take a while to heat up....and have been known to wobble a bit when cold.
I wonder if it was just a case of "cold edges" on the Dunflops ?
It has caught out enough Moto GP guys and others on warmup laps - we can't be immune to this without tyre warmers, colder weather (most of us) etc etc.
I do agree with Steve-o (allo Mate) and would add that the Dunflops, while purporting to be good ON LIGHTER BIKES don't do well on heavy girls like ours. They are inclined to wear on the edges, as they don't like the weight and wear out quickly. Don't forget a 1000RR is 70KG's or 150 pounds ! lighter sitting at the curb than our fat ladies. And I for sure wouldn't fit them even to one of those....
Sounds like a combination of "squirm" under the weight, and a bit o' wear and some spirited "Enry style" underpants wrecking cornering with a bit of increased centre of gravity upward movement from the luggage load.
My tuppence worth.............
#40
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Giday to you too Pete .....
I agree , Dunflops ???? .... ***** .... my Bridgestone's last for bloody ever!! and I can not out ride them , even when she does a few shimmy shakes on big **** bends , she is still quite controllable....
Henry , another thought that may be of interest mate ... IF you carry all the weight over the rear of the back axle in a box ....?? it does increase the weight over the back of the rear axle !!!! and that will without a doubt increase the chance of abnormal front end handling ....
Try to carry the loads on or over the passenger seat area like I do
" the misses ect ...LOLOL " ....and I AM SURE that the handling will improve .....
Although the exception to the rule is when yu misses throws an all might punch at yu in the ribs at you, at speeds over 200kph !!! ...and om telling you , that sure tends to disturb even my Bridgies mate !!! ..... LOLOLOL
but , I do thank my misses " Kerri " for the occassional adventure into the land of " what the **** " is happening ...!!!!
(steering all over the place !! , ribs hurting !! and where the **** are we heading as we wobble off to the side of the road at speeds slightly over the Hyway limit ..... !! ) .... bloody women !! lolol
.....
I agree , Dunflops ???? .... ***** .... my Bridgestone's last for bloody ever!! and I can not out ride them , even when she does a few shimmy shakes on big **** bends , she is still quite controllable....
Henry , another thought that may be of interest mate ... IF you carry all the weight over the rear of the back axle in a box ....?? it does increase the weight over the back of the rear axle !!!! and that will without a doubt increase the chance of abnormal front end handling ....
Try to carry the loads on or over the passenger seat area like I do
" the misses ect ...LOLOL " ....and I AM SURE that the handling will improve .....
Although the exception to the rule is when yu misses throws an all might punch at yu in the ribs at you, at speeds over 200kph !!! ...and om telling you , that sure tends to disturb even my Bridgies mate !!! ..... LOLOLOL
but , I do thank my misses " Kerri " for the occassional adventure into the land of " what the **** " is happening ...!!!!
(steering all over the place !! , ribs hurting !! and where the **** are we heading as we wobble off to the side of the road at speeds slightly over the Hyway limit ..... !! ) .... bloody women !! lolol
.....
Last edited by CBRclassic; 06-18-2011 at 04:54 AM.