Hi.

One of the things keeping me from diving in to replace my cct is having to do the valves at the same time ... from the cct replacement procedure in the FSM it looks like the exhaust valves would need to be re-adjusted upon reinstallation. I've done valves on other bikes, but I've always taken the CBR to someone else to do the valves. the locknut and adjuster are so deep down in the valve cover, I did not feel comfortable trying it myself. FSM suggests using a specialty Honda VFR valve wrench for the job. For those that adjust their own valves ... what tool do you use to reach down there?

What flat feelers do you use as well? I have a little set which contains most thicknesses, but each feeler is only 10-15 cm long. When I've had my valves checked last time, I took the bike in to the shop in the back of a truck I had at the time (no longer have a pick up truck), with everything removed so the tech had access to the valve adjusters. He used a set of feelers that seemed to be a foot long each.

Thanks,
Nova Scotia Mike

 

I have about the same lenght on my feelers and they work fine if one bends them to a banana shape. Often you kan make your own "special" tools like e.g cut the end of a ring spanner and weld it back in a 90 degrees angle, or just make it shorter and things like that. I used standard tools for adjusting the intake valves. I saw that the exhaust, which where within specs this time, probably needed something special to reach or at least you have to work blind by feeling. After som practice on the intake side, that should cause no problem. It is important to use a torque wrench to lock the adjuster nuts.

 

All of my short feelers are bent up for various other vehicles I maintain. I just want the long ones.



I'd love to be able to cut up a wrench and weld it up to custom but alas, I do not weld ... yet. I have found this technique which seemed to work for a Prelude guy, albeit a bit ghetto ... valve adjust
Also, I will check with my local dealer to see if they can get these tools and how much they'd cost.

I'd rather not work blind as I have hands the size of a gorilla's.

Oh, and I use a cheap beam type torque wrench on every bolt possible. I am ham fisted.

Thanks,
Nova Scotia Mike

PS: editted for spelling

 

I used the same vice grip on a socket method that honda guy did on my bike.. and my hands are like gorillas as well (XL gloves only). One method I found it quite consistent, is to adjust one valve to spec, then see exactly how far the adjuster screw turns in before it contacts the valve without the feeler guage there.. then do the rest of the valves by tightening until contact, and backing off 1/3 (JUST AN EXAMPLE) of a turn.. I remember the SPEC for my old honda CT70 trail bike was 1/2 turn from contact

another note, if you find your valves are tight, take that into consideration when adjusting, the trend is that they tighten, so i put mine on the loose side of the tolerance (.007") rather than .006".. overtight valves lead to BAD things, a little loose, well, they might be a touch noisy on startup, might cost you a HP due to 1 degree less cam duration/ valve lift.. but it less costly

 

The easiest way to do it is just pay the $$$ for the Honda tool. I cannot tell you how much easier it makes life. If you are determined to do it with normal tools then you may find it easier to disconnect the radiator hose from the 3 way connection to give you access above the exhaust locknuts.

Cheers
Rob

 

I called my local dealer to get a $ on the Honda specialty tools .... $100. I did a bit more poking around and found this one ...

Honda tool

... at my local chain hardware store (Canadian Tire) for $19.99.

I'm going to give it a whirl tonight.

Thanks for all advice,
Nova Scotia Mike

 

well.. that looks like it would work

the hardest part I found was to get the valve cover on and off without damaging anything.. that rad hose is a pain in the *** for any engine work I've found

 

So yesterday I did my valves (I'm going to wait on the cct again as I have the OEM chain and I think I'd rather find one with a masterlink so I don't have to split the cases).

My '87 has 70,000 kms and the last valve inspection was done @ 58,000 kms. I can't find the 58,000 km adjustments but I don't remember there being too many. This time around I needed to slightly adjust most of them.

The tool I bought sure helped a lot on the intake side and for a few of the exhaust side, but a lot of the exhaust side work was done blind. Not much room in there.

I drained my coolant and removed the upper rad pipes for easier access ... highly recommended.

Buttoned back up, she sounds better on start up ... but of course now that I've done some adjustments, I'm uber sensitive to weird sounds and it sounds different (do I hear ticking? Don't I hear ticking?) ... but this is kneeling with my ear to the block which I never would've done before.

I plan to monitor weird sounds closely for a bit and scheduale another valve inspection @ 80,000 kms.

Thanks all.

 

I hate draining coolant with a passion.. so i always try and find every workaround i possibly can