Valve adjustment - missing indexmark
#11
hexagon 3mm bit with an extension so hope it will reach and at the same time
not be in the way. Heading for the garage now, hopefully I can get a grip
on the socket without grinding it down
#12
Checked the clearances for No.2 and No.4 cylinder exhaust valves and they were totally wrong.
That's where the timing mark is missing but I turned the crankshaft 180° as spoken of before.
The specs say 0.18 ± 0.02 mm (0.007 ± 0.001 in)
My numbers were:
No.2 0.14 and 0.13 (0.0055 and 0.005 in)
No.4 0.22 and 0.22 (0.0086 in)
It did run very uneven on low RPM's but nothing that could be noticed at higher RPM's.
I wonder, especially about No.2 can this really be true? Anyone else experienced such a great difference?
Picture showing EX 2
That's where the timing mark is missing but I turned the crankshaft 180° as spoken of before.
The specs say 0.18 ± 0.02 mm (0.007 ± 0.001 in)
My numbers were:
No.2 0.14 and 0.13 (0.0055 and 0.005 in)
No.4 0.22 and 0.22 (0.0086 in)
It did run very uneven on low RPM's but nothing that could be noticed at higher RPM's.
I wonder, especially about No.2 can this really be true? Anyone else experienced such a great difference?
Picture showing EX 2
#13
#14
#16
Yep! Check it with cam up.
It's a little tight but don't worry about it. If you haven't cooked a valve your fine, just make it right. You usually cook valves when the clearance gets to almost nil and the EX valve doesn't get to cool against the head seat.
I cooked one on a triple digit run heading home from Daytona, FL. WOW! Nothing left of #2 EX valve on cylinder#1. Looked like a lollypop that someone licked down to the stick. But that was 35 years ago.LOL Brand new bike with just 3,500 miles on it and I never checked the clearances. I knew better even back then. OH Well! LOL
It's a little tight but don't worry about it. If you haven't cooked a valve your fine, just make it right. You usually cook valves when the clearance gets to almost nil and the EX valve doesn't get to cool against the head seat.
I cooked one on a triple digit run heading home from Daytona, FL. WOW! Nothing left of #2 EX valve on cylinder#1. Looked like a lollypop that someone licked down to the stick. But that was 35 years ago.LOL Brand new bike with just 3,500 miles on it and I never checked the clearances. I knew better even back then. OH Well! LOL
Last edited by TimBucTwo; 06-08-2012 at 09:11 PM.
#17
Yep! Check it with cam up.
It's a little tight but don't worry about it. If you haven't cooked a valve your fine, just make it right. You usually cook valves when the clearance gets to almost nil and the EX valve doesn't get to cool against the head seat.
I cooked one on a triple digit run heading home from Daytona, FL. WOW! Nothing left of #2 EX valve on cylinder#1. Looked like a lollypop that someone licked down to the stick. But that was 35 years ago.LOL Brand new bike with just 3,500 miles on it and I never checked the clearances. I knew better even back then. OH Well! LOL
It's a little tight but don't worry about it. If you haven't cooked a valve your fine, just make it right. You usually cook valves when the clearance gets to almost nil and the EX valve doesn't get to cool against the head seat.
I cooked one on a triple digit run heading home from Daytona, FL. WOW! Nothing left of #2 EX valve on cylinder#1. Looked like a lollypop that someone licked down to the stick. But that was 35 years ago.LOL Brand new bike with just 3,500 miles on it and I never checked the clearances. I knew better even back then. OH Well! LOL
So what I understand you're all talking about the cam lobes pointing straight up. They are, as far as I can see so then it has to be right. Sure don't hope that tight clearance has ruined something. Thx a lot guys, I'm heading down for the garage again and hope I will sort everything out. Wanna get my bike in really good shape before I ride her again
Last edited by Hojen77; 06-11-2012 at 04:23 PM. Reason: Sp.
#19
will take me
Finally I'm done with the valve adjustment, almost every valve had to be
adjusted, some of them pretty much. Somewhere in the middle of it all I was
nearly giving up because it was a PITA to adjust the EX valves at the far ends.
Had to cut off both the 10mm socket and the allen key, even so it was very hard
to fit it in, especially since that damn hose was in the way as you see in the
picture, not much room there. Well, nice to be done with that but I'm beginning
to wonder if she'll ever start again after all I've done to her
#20
Originally Posted by TBT
You don't need to be EXACTLY 180°. There is a lot of slop when rotating most engines. You just need to have the lobes out of the way.
Originally Posted by sprock
on the tool thing a set of pass through/go through sockets is something I keep handy
I wish the set I have was easier to come by, though, because I'd buy another one for a backup.
I still have my ground down 10mm craftsman deepwell, though.
Originally Posted by Hojen
Well, nice to be done with that but I'm beginning
to wonder if she'll ever start again after all I've done to her
to wonder if she'll ever start again after all I've done to her
Although... I've never done a valve/cam job where I didn't think it was going to blow up as soon as I started it. lol..
When I first did the piston rings and valve work on my car, I was about 90% sure the head would explode when I turned the key.
But it didn't. In fact, it ran excellent. It's all about checking and rechecking.
On a sidenote.... if you haven't already bolted down the valve cover, be VERY gentle when you're torquing them down. Just snug them up. I wouldn't even torque them up to spec, to be honest, because I think it's too much. They have a bad tendency to snap.