My CBR1000F has some shifting issues and since I cocked up something else (which you can read about here) I decided I could tear the beast open.

At the moment I'm ripping through the parts in an effort to get to the shift forks and drum but I'm being stopped by the gear shift cover.

Part no. 1 in the picture.

As far as I can tell I've removed all the bolts but still the cover seems quite stuck. Any tips on removal?

 

It's probably been there since 1987 and just doesn't want to come off!

I'd have a soft faced hammer, some boiling water, some ice and patience.

Tap, tap, tap lightly all around the edge of the cover where you can get to it, pour boiling water all over the cover continuing to tap lightly (we don't want to crack or bend it now do we?). Then apply ice in a plastic bag over as much of the cover as you can, then tap again (expanding and shrinking the cover slightly with heat/cold).

There will probably be a gasket and gasket goo that you have to loosen.

Just keep at it and it should eventually give up its grip.

Cheers, SB

 

I had the same problem, so I managed to get it a tiny way out and slid small sections of thin steel, packing case banding was brilliant by gradual increments, rocking it, warming it with heat gun or try hairdryer. It usually gets stuck on part nos 26 as its a v.close fit.

 

I've tried for an hour or 2 last night, damn thing still wouldn't budge. Next time I'll try to get a heat source, didn't have one at my disposal yesterday.

 

Have you tried using a concrete breaker on the weakest point? Bound to work! ��
There is definitely a problem with these engines. It's usually due to the fact that they don't leak any oil at all and therefore have to suffer the problems associated with steel vs aluminium oxidation without an oil film to exclude oxygen. Keep the WD40, engine oil and engine cleaner treatment going in the run up to breaking the joint. Lubrication by capillary action is so important. Sometimes you have to apply a little flamboyance with the rubber mallet but only after patience with the spray cans.
Failing that, it's engine out, clean, clean, clean, and disassemble in a different order. **** that, if you can help it.
Try everything you've read above, then a little more WD40 and a bigger mallet.
Good luck.

 

Hang on a minute, I just realised, you are trying to remove the cover that houses the final drive bearing. Gulp!
Honestly, unless my memory completely deceives me, you will not succeed. This cover is an engine out job to remove.
Sorry for my self doubt, it was four years ago I last had to split my engine. You will definitely not be able to get the shifter forks by removing this cover. You have to spit the crank cases to see those little buggers and lift them out.

 

Admiraal,

You should be able to remove the shifter cover, keep at it. You will not be able to access the shift forks, as those are both inside the cases next to the transmission main shaft and counter shaft. Behind the shifter cover is the shift detent, rachet mech and rolling pawl which allow you to select each gear. The main countershaft output bearing is behind this cover, as well as the shift drum and bearing, and are assembled as part of the engine during assembly. See pages 124 & 125 here: http://members.iinet.net.au/~cbr/Hon...ice_Manual.pdf

If your shifting issues are a result of the failure of one of the shift drum selector parts, you can access and fix these once you remove the shifter cover. If your issues are related to a bent shift fork, faulty shift drum, or dog/slot wear on the transmission gears that causes them to not fully engage, or pop out, as Henry mentioned, that's a full R&R of the motor, and a case split to access. I had to do that on a 900RR I owned for more than 16 years, and 80K miles. Second gear dog/slots rounded over and it would pop out of gear, or be difficult to shift smoothly.

Hope this helps!

 

Thanks for the replies guys. I was led to believe by my Haynes manual that I would be able to access the gearbox without splitting the engine. (see below)

 

Right, got it. There was a bolt hiding under a good cm of grease. Once that one was loosened up, I used some thin steel shims and it popped right off.

 

Good stuff! Well done you...............

Cheers, SB